Edinburgh’s Victoria Street
Edinburgh’s Victoria Street
WORDS ELIZABETH WINDING
Curving down to the Grassmarket in Edinburgh’s Old Town, the cobbled, steeply-sloping Victoria Street houses a rich mix of independent shops. Their specialities run from antiquarian books and prints (Old Town Bookshop) to Scottish yarns (K1 Yarns Knitting Boutique) and splendid tweed suits (Walker Slater). There’s even a fancy dress shop: the well-stocked Aha Ha Ha at no.99. A heady waft of cheese emerges from cheesemonger Iain J Mellis’s premises at no.30A, while two doors down is The Whisky Shop, with its roll-call of Scottish greats: Ardbeg, Jura, Laphroaig et al. Bring a capacious shopping bag and take your time: this is a street made for slow wanderings and serendipitous discoveries.
1 Anta
Along the Royal Mile, you’ll find yourself swamped by a surfeit of cheaply-made, imported tartans and tweeds. For the real deal come to Anta. Everything is produced in Scotland, and built to last – from the tweed cushions and lambswool throws to the solid oak tables and chairs. Made from the offcuts of the company’s pure wool rugs, the sturdily handsome carpet bags (right) are a canny buy.
93 West Bow, Victoria Street; 0131 225 4616; www.anta.co.uk
2 The Red Door Gallery
Halfway down Victoria Street, the Red Door Gallery’s small but inviting premises are crammed with screenprints, scarves, cards, jewellery and homeware – including Scottish designer Donna Wilson’s rosy-cheeked Meg plates (above).
42 Victoria Street; 0131 477 3255; www.edinburghart.com
3 Demijohn
At no.32, this is a deli with a difference. Its walls are lined with its namesake demijohns: enormous glass containers, arrayed on wooden shelves. Their contents run from oils and vinegars to handmade spirits and liqueurs, sourced from small British producers. After sampling a tot or two, take your pick from organic elderflower vodka, damson gin liqueur or fiery ginger wine, which can be decanted into bottles of various sizes.
32 Victoria Street; 0131 225 4090; www.demijohn.co.uk
4 Clarksons
Established in the 50s, this family-run jewellers is the oldest resident on Victoria Street. Behind its maroon façade, dark-wood cabinets glitter with sapphire sparklers, couples eye up engagement rings and staff exude an air of unhurried, old-fashioned courtesy. Upstairs is the workshop where the pieces are made, along with bespoke commissions – another of the shop’s specialities.
87 West Bow, Victoria Street; 0131 225 8141; www.clarksonsedinburgh.co.uk
