A Drinker’s guide to the Middle East*
The earliest recorded evidence of brewing comes from ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia; Now, two pioneering microbreweries are putting the region back on the beer-drinker’s map
* AND A BIT OF NORTH AFRICA
BEIRUT IS HARDLY BAVARIA, but for an Arab city it’s a relative Oktoberfest. Lebanon’s wine has long been highly regarded, but until recently there was only one beer, Almaza, owned by Heineken. Then, in the summer of 2006, Mazen Hajjar and Henrik Haagen opened 961, Beirut’s first microbrewery. It was a less than auspicious start: within weeks of Hajjar returning home to Beirut to pursue his dream, bombs started falling on the city. He considered putting the project on ice.
‘I was sitting in my apartment, bombs falling all around, with no electricity, and I started reading the autobiography of Steve Hindy, who opened Brooklyn Brewery in New York. And the first line was something like "I woke up to the sound of bombs exploding outside my Beirut hotel".’ It turned out that Hajjar’s role model had reported from Beirut during the civil war – a coincidence that inspired him to persist. ‘I called my friends and told them to come over and brew with me. We brewed on my oven top, in the middle of a war. Our first few batches were miserable, but we soon got better.’ They certainly did. A year later, 961 was running a brewery and the hippest bar in Beirut. Last year the team moved to larger premises, where they can produce 12 million bottles a year of their three acclaimed brews – lager, porter and red ale.
The other independent Arab brewery is another unlikely success story. In 1995, Taybeh, a Christian village in the West Bank, became home to the first microbrewery in the Middle East. ‘People here thought I was nuts when I started, completely out of my mind,’ says Nadim Khoury, who became interested in brewing while studying in Boston. ‘But it’s my hobby and my passion.’
The four varieties of Taybeh beer – dark, light, amber ale and golden – have gained something of a cult following among the world’s beer aficionados. It’s because they’re great beers, but also because Taybeh has succeeded in a uniquely challenging business environment. Many Palestinians don’t consume alcohol for religious reasons and export is difficult due to the West Bank barrier and long delays at checkpoints.
But Khoury persists, not only because it’s his passion, but because Taybeh is a representative of Palestine. ‘We may not have a Palestinian country,’ he says. ‘But we have a Palestinian beer.’ Matthew Lee
Casablanca (Morocco)
The best of Morocco’s beers. We love the label – and also the promotional mirrors the brewery hands out to its bars, printed with the same design.
TOP ROW, LEFT TO RIGHT
Philadelphia (Jordan)
A run-of-the-mill 5% abv lager from the General Investment Company, a subsidiary of Heineken. Not to be confused with the cream cheese.
Petra (Jordan)
At 10% abv, this is not a beer for the faint-hearted. The can promises ‘The taste of the rosy city’, but that would only be true if Petra (‘the rose city’) tasted of solvent.
Taybeh Dark (Palestine)
One of the excellent beers brewed in the West Bank village of Taybeh. Whereas most beers in the Arab world are pale, thin lagers this is a cola-brown hued brew, fruity and malty with a rich caramel finish.
Taybeh Golden (Palestine)
Taybeh beer is, apparently, popular in Japan and is also brewed under licence in Germany – although given Germany’s rich brewing heritage, drinking Taybeh there would have to be a political choice.
MIDDLE ROW, LEFT TO RIGHT
Stella (Egypt)
Brewed in Egypt for over a century, Stella is now produced by the Al-Ahram Brewery (part of Heineken International since 2002). The default beer throughout the country, it’s drinkable when cold. Not to be confused with Stella Artois.
Sakara Gold (Egypt)
Al-Ahram Brewery’s premier beer. It’s a little lighter than Stella, and much better tasting.
Meister Max (Egypt)
The strongest of the three Al-Ahram beers. At 5.2% abv it packs quite a punch, if not delivering quite so much on taste.
BOTTOM ROW, LEFT TO RIGHT
Almaza (Lebanon)
Brewed since 1933 but, inevitably, now owned by Heineken. Unsurprisingly, it tastes just like Heineken – that’s to say fairly bland, but inoffensive served cold in hot weather.
961 (Lebanon)
Beirut’s best beer, and perhaps the finest in the Middle East. Lager, porter and red ale are available, and wheat beer is on the way this year.
Lebanese Brew (Lebanon)
Launched last summer, this is another beer from the folks behind the 961 brewery. It’s best known for its viral marketing – namely a YouTube video featuring Lebanese youth partying and drawing graffiti, which starts with a couple waking up in bed.
[ MIDDLE EAST & MOROCCO ]
10 top bars
[ALEPPO]
Baron Hotel
These days we’re not sure if we’d chance the rooms at the Baron (the line between aged charm and outright discomfort was crossed some time ago). Still, the hotel’s chapel-like bar remains a fine place to commune with the ghosts of patrons past, such as TE Lawrence and US heavyweight boxing champ of 1926-28 Gene Tunney. House drink: That would be a local Al-Sharq beer.
[AMMAN]
Cantaloupe
Above the busy dining room (modern international eats) is a stylish rooftop bar and terrace with a stunning panoramic view of the Citadel and hills of East Amman. Find it on Rainbow Street. House drink: Try a glass of Saint Georges pinot noir, a product of Jordanian vineyards.
[BEIRUT]
Dragonfly
Among the countless small bars that line Gemmayzeh Street, this one stands out for its big personality. It’s a bit more grown up than the rest, with better taste in music, an engaging clientele and a barman who knows his way around a backshelf well stocked with spirits. House drink: Tough call, given that the menu lists some 50 cocktails, but try the house take on the caipirinha.
[BEIRUT]
37 Degrees
Despite being nearly two decades old, this laid-back Monot Street lounge-bar remains a popular hotspot with a great atmosphere, class cocktails and some phenomenal shots. House drink: For a potent hit of local flavour, order up the spicy shot called a Doodoo.
[CAIRO]
Aperitivo
Cocktail culture only recently arrived in Cairo, kicked off by the arrival of this bar. It boasts a seductive retro lounge feel and colourful mosaics inspired by 1920s drinks ads. Find it on 26th of July Street in Zamalek. House drink: Anything made with Campari.
[CAIRO]
Barrel Lounge
Hemingway was never in Cairo, but if he had been this is where he would have (been) drunk. It has the feel of an officers’ club, which it was in World War II, and the furnishing and fittings haven’t been changed since. Find it at the Windsor Hotel, Downtown. House drink: The spirits behind the bar are of the local, dubious variety, so best stick to Stella.
[CASABLANCA]
La Petit Rocher
A lively party venue that comes with a good-time guarantee. The clincher, though, is the location, beside the ocean out by the lighthouse with terrific views across to the Hassan II Mosque. House drink: It’s a mojito sort of place.
[DAMASCUS]
Bar Salon
Five’s a crowd at this Old City hole-in-the-wall joint on historic Straight Street (near Bab Sharqi), where the elderly regulars view foreign drop-ins with benign bemusement. House drink: Local Al-Barada beer only.
[MARRAKECH]
La Renaissance
High above central Guéliz is a rooftop bar with stunning views down along Ave Mohammed V back to the Medina – although the smart Marrakechi crowd that gather here are far too cool to be impressed. House drink: Good for a long, cool G&T.
[WADI MUSA]
Cave Bar
At the entrance to Petra is the small town of Wadi Musa, which is where you find the Crowne Plaza Hotel. Near it is the Cave Bar, a 2,000-year-old Nabatean tomb that does a strong sideline in cocktails. House drink: That would be a strong mix of old rum, blue carousel, Triple Sec and brandy that they call Between the Caves.
