Fast-track fashion
By the age of 17, Tbilisi-born David Koma was running his own fashion label. Now 24, he is dressing Beyoncé and Lady Gaga
WORDS LAUREN COCHRANE
FASHION HAS A NEW STAR in the shape of David Koma. A 24-year-old Georgian on only his third collection, his sculptural, glamorous designs have already been worn by a whole host of A-listers. Remember Beyoncé and Cheryl Cole in that black dress, with metal details? That was Koma. How about Rihanna’s bright orange number, worn with sexy boots? Koma again. The list of fans is growing longer too – with Lady Gaga and Megan Fox also wearing his designs.
Such success so soon could be put down to Koma starting early. At an age when most boys were still playing with toys without a care in the world, he was already designing. “I started drawing dresses when I was about eight,” he says. “Then I went to art school when I was 10.”
Born and brought up in Georgia’s capital, Tbilisi, Koma’s entrance to art school coincided with his family’s move to St Petersburg. He then fast-tracked his way into the fashion industry, becoming something of a Russian It-Kid as a teenager. “I know it sounds weird, but at 15 I thought I was really cool so I did my own show at St Petersburg Fashion Week,” he laughs. “Then I did two more collections and Moscow Fashion Week in 2002 when I was 17, setting up my own studio.”
Koma grimaces slightly when remembering all of this – for him, success in fashion started with a move to London, and a degree at the city’s Central Saint Martins college. “It was time to start from zero again,” he says. “I closed my studio and was just a normal fashion student.” Completing a BA in design without the usual foundation course, Koma then moved on to the masters degree. Presided over by Professor Louise Wilson (and with alumni including Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and Giles Deacon, plus half the staff of brands like Balenciaga and Lanvin), the course is notoriously tough. “The MA was my goal from when I was about 14, and Louise was my idol,” says Koma. “It was hard, but if you enjoy what you do, you love it.”
Indeed – Koma passed with flying colours, winning the Harrods Best Designer award upon graduating. And, despite his Georgian and Russian heritage, he has been taken firmly under the wing of London’s fashion scene – with his clothes selling in exclusive boutique Browns Focus and a turn on the catwalk as part of the Topshop-sponsored New Gen shows come September. “I do feel part of a new generation,” he says, name- checking other London rising star Mary Kratrantzou as a friend. “Because, as a graduate of the MA, I am.”
Not that this fashion prodigy has forgotten his roots. Koma goes back to visit Tbilisi with his family most summers and his designs are stocked in three eastern European boutiques. He is now a major star in Georgia – even beyond his immediate family. “My grandmother is my biggest fan and she keeps all the cuttings on me,” he smiles. “I did Georgian TV a while back, just to make her happy. Then the press in Georgia went crazy.”
It’s sure to get even crazier in Georgia and beyond as Koma’s career develops. His autumn/winter collection, inspired by the graphic work of Italian Futurist artist Fortunato Depero, develops his signature sculptural shapes and has scored him prestigious stockists including Harrods and Joyce in Hong Kong. For Koma, however, his work is all about appealing to the women wearing his clothes – whoever they may be. “They can go out and can feel strong but they come home and be a nice girlfriend, or a good mum,” he says. “Beyoncé is strong when she is [stage persona] Sasha Fierce, but I have met her and she’s really sweet and humble. That contrast is good.” Indeed – you might say it is his winning formula.
KOMA’S GUIDE TO TBILISI
METEKHI CHURCH
This is a beautiful Georgian church. Church is quite important in Georgia because it is a very religious country. I have childhood memories of this one and always go back when I am there. It does not have stained glass but it is grey and simple, elegant and sharp.
OLD TBILISI
There are lot of small paths in the Old Town. It’s very up and down, and quaint. It’s full of bars and restaurants. When you go there, you might think people in Tbilisi only eat and sit out at tables next to a bar!
TSISKVILI
This is a good restaurant, I love it. When I spend a week in Georgia, I will go there maybe four or five times. Avoid the main restaurant. Instead, go to the more informal part. You can bring your own beer and they have kebab, dim sum… all types of food!
Right bank of River Mtkvari, +995 (32) 530 797, www.tsiskvili.ge
KUS LAKE
This translates as ‘turtle lake’. There’s not that much to see but I really like it. There’s a bit by the lake that they have renovated with a swimming pool, fountains and a bar. You can get a sun lounger and drink coffee all day. It’s very hot in Tbilisi in the summer.
