First time in Belfast
Our guide to the best of the forward-looking city
WORDS | JULIA MOLONY
POPULATION: 268,000 people live in the city proper, while 600,000 live in the wider metropolitan area
NUMBER OF OVERNIGHT VISITORS PER YEAR: 1.2 million
LANGUAGE: English
CURRENCY: Sterling (Euros also widely accepted)
COST OF A LARGE BEER: £2.70 average for a pint
COST OF A ONE-BED APARTMENT IN CENTRAL BELFAST: £178,000
COST FOR ONE NIGHT IN A FIVE-STAR HOTEL: £120-£150
IT MIGHT BE SMALL AND COMPACT, but in culture, character and cuisine Belfast more than punches above its weight. It has all the hallmarks of a major metropolitan centre: an opera house, two universities, cathedrals and, since its regeneration following the Good Friday agreement, a thriving continental-style café culture.
Belfast pulsates with living history. From its Victorian-era industrial heritage to the murals which commemorate the sectarian conflict of the 20th century, there is no escaping the past here, and no first-time visitor should miss one of the famous tours, taking in the protest murals and the infamous Shankill and Falls roads. Though conscious of its past, Belfast is resolutely forward-looking. It takes pride in its fresh and buzzy music scene, has embraced global cuisine using local ingredients, and is growing in fine eateries and stylish bars.
Nestled in a snug bowl of hills on the shore of the Irish Sea, Belfast’s pretty geographical aspect is the reason behind its reputation as one of the best places in the world to take in the sunset on a clear day, and has become a key feature of the city’s revitalisation. The regenerated Laganside waterfront district in particular is now ultra-fashionable.
HOTELS
THE FITZWILLIAM HOTEL
Contemporary décor and a restaurant run by Michelin star-winning Irish chef Kevin Thornton. From £95. Great Victoria Street, +44 (0)28 9044 2080, www.fitzwilliamhotelbelfast.com
MALMAISON
Boasting opulent design, here you can choose from a bordello-style room or a rock ‘n’ roll suite. From £85. 34-38 Victoria Street, +44 (0)28 9022 0200, www.malmaison-belfast.com
THE MERCHANT
The ultimate high-end, luxe experience, the Merchant boasts one of the world’s most expensive cocktails, which will set you back £750. Rooms from £180. 35-39 Waring Street, +44 (0)28 9023 4888, www.themerchanthotel.com
BISTROS & BARS
MADE IN BELFAST
Proudly local as the name suggests, the décor evokes Portobello Road-style laid-back, eclectic cool. 4 Wellington Street, +44 (0)28 9024 6712, www.madeinbelfastni.com
COCO
A new jewel in the city’s epicurean crown, Coco offers “sexy-chic boutique surroundings” and is the current hotspot among Belfast’s cognoscenti. 7-11 Linenhall Street. +44 (0)28 9031 1150, www.cocobelfast.co.uk
THE DUKE OF YORK
Gerry Adams used to be a barman in this Belfast landmark. They stock every whiskey distilled in Ireland. 7-11 Commercial Court, +44 (0)28 9024 1062
TOP TIP
Last year’s inaugural Taste and Music festival, held in the city’s glorious Botanic Gardens at the height of summer, was such a hit that this year it’s back and promises to be bigger and better than ever. From 4 to 8 August, the Great Lawn at the Botanic Gardens will be transformed into a boulevard of pop-up restaurants where renowned chefs from Northern Ireland and beyond will showcase their skills. www.belfasttasteandmusicfest.com
SHOPPING TIP
Between them, the main shopping areas of Victoria Square and Castle Court offer enough chains and boutiques to satisfy any label junkie, but if independent gems, vintage stores and shabby chic are more your thing, head off the beaten track to Lisburn Road in the south of the city. This is a gentrified little spot and a favourite of young families, where the lattes are organic and the shops are quirky and original. The historical Smithfield Market near Castle Court, recently named as one of the top 10 markets in the UK, is also well worth a look.
RECENT HISTORY
1900-1930 The city becomes a centre of industry famous for shipbuilding. The Titanic was launched here in 1911.
1921 Becomes capital of Northern Ireland as the south of the island claims independence.
1941 The Blitz. As a major British port, Belfast is aggressively targeted by German bombers.
1969 The British Army is deployed to Northern Ireland in an attempt to quash rising sectarian violence and outbreaks of rioting.
1994 A paramilitary ceasefire brings an end to organised sectarian violence.
1998 The ratification of the Good Friday agreement prompts widespread regeneration of the city, including the development of the Victoria Square and Laganside areas.
BUSINESS TIPS FOR BELFAST
Alex Ward, a partner of BDO Northern Ireland, a Belfast-based business development consultancy, offers his advice
Meetings tend to be informal here. The atmosphere is personable and human rather than overly corporate.
Belfast people like to show off their city, perhaps to counter any prejudices about the place that may linger from the Troubles. While we’re proud of our history, we’re keen to show off the fact that Belfast stands for something else now. It’s a dynamic, sophisticated and thriving centre of business.
Sociability is an important part of the business experience. Expect to be invited out to experience the town’s legendary atmosphere and to sample some of the great eating and drinking on offer.
It’s a small place, with a close-knit business community. If you are talking to associates and contacts about other people you have met, be aware that there’s a good chance they may know each other.
Belfast used to have a reputation for having a male-dominated business culture but this has dramatically changed. There are lots of senior women in business now, who are very much treated as equals. www.bdoni.com
