Middle eats
Beirut comes to Britain with these authentic and irresistible restaurants
WORDS | STEPHANIE HIRSH – MILLER
AS OUR TASTE FOR TRAVEL BECOMES MORE EXOTIC SO TOO DOES OUR APPETITE FOR TRYING NEW FOODS. And with its eateries now springing up apace all over London, Lebanese cuisine is as tantalising here as in Beirut. So if you’re looking for a sexy alternative to the usual dining venues this month, where better than these predominantly cheap, eminently cheerful and surprisingly healthy eateries.
LEBANESE LUX
Laya’Lina
This Knightsbridge hotspot is style and substance in one super slick package.
Who’s behind it?
Restaurant entrepreneur Fadi Saliba, who’s so evangelical about his country’s wine he sells his favourite Clos St Thomas for just £15 – way below market value.
What’s the vibe?
The glitzy ground floor bar and lounge certainly draws in the beautiful people and the subterranean restaurant hosts entertainment courtesy of TV belly dancer Julia Naidenko.
Signature dishes
Top billing goes to signature dish, the melt-in-the-mouth Laya’Lina Lamb Shank, served on the bone (£18.95), though beautifully presented salads and mezze are under a tenner.
Celebrity fans
George Michael and Strictly Come Dancing’s Ali Bastian and Brian Fortuna.
Anything else?
Fadi is introducing smokeless electric shisha pipes, cigars and cigarettes, which can even be enjoyed indoors. They emit a nicotine-infused vapour which can be inhaled like normal smoke.
2-3 Beauchamp Place, SW3, +44 (0)20 7581 4296, www.layalina.co.uk
BEIRUT TO BERMONDSEY
Del’Aziz
A restaurant, bar, bakery and gift boutique all under one roof.
Who’s behind it?
Dynamic duo and husband and wife team, Shahrokh and Zehra Parvin.
What’s the vibe?
The flagship branch of the five-strong chain (they’re also in Fulham, Bankside, Swiss Cottage and Westfield) brings the eastern bazaar to London, complete with glass columns in hot pink.
Signature dishes
Breakfast like a king on traditional Berber pancakes, £6. But it is mezze dishes (£4-£7.50) of marinated kasaar cheese with pine nuts and grilled halloumi with spiced fig and date jam that really sort the sheep from the goats, as it were.
Celebrity fans
Zandra Rhodes and Frank Lampard.
Anything else?
Cocktails are served in silver Moroccan teapots. We love the Alexandrian Rasputin – passion fruit vodka shaken with berries, apple and pomegranate juices.
11 Bermondsey Square, SE1, +44 (0)20 7407 2991 www.delaziz.co.uk
POP CULTURE
Comptoir Libanais
The Lebanese canteen brand has just added a Finchley Road branch to its growing portfolio.
Who’s behind it?
Tony Kitous of Levant and Pasha fame.
What’s the vibe?
Contemporary communal dining amidst flamboyant graphic prints. A 2am license makes it a perfect post-cinema hang out.
Signature dishes
In addition to its trademark street food, the new venue features a shawarma, carved straight from the rotisserie. “Nothing like the infamous doner,” laughs Kitous. From £4.50.
Celebrity fans
JLS, Bill Nighy, David Cameron.
Anything else?
Pop art Lebanese style, with massive murals of artist Rana Salam’s classic image of Middle Eastern movie star Kirine Jamal al Dien.
O2 Centre, 225 Finchley Road, NW3, www.lecomptoir.co.uk
BIJOU JEWEL
Yalla Yalla
The name means ‘hurry up’ in Arabic and this tiny café seats only 24 people at a time.
Who’s behind it?
Co-owners Jad Youssef and Agnieska Ilska pooled their £80,000 savings when they found the site for sale on the internet last year.
What’s the vibe?
Roughly hewn wooden tables and photos of old Beirut are complemented by cushions made from vintage scarves.
Signature dishes
The Kibbé Lahmé – deep fried lamb and cracked wheat parcels – is legendary, as is the warm cheese cake that comes with rose petal ice cream. Starters and desserts from £3.50 and mains under £10.
Celebrity fans
Keira Knightley and TV chef Tamasin Day-Lewis.
Anything else?
The queue often stretches out onto the street and Agnieska tells me the pair are already scoping out sites for a second branch.
Green’s Court, W1, +44 (0)20 7287 7663, www.yalla-yalla.co.uk
FIT FOR A PRINCE
1,001 Nights
Little sister to Fakhreldine, the posh Piccadilly stalwart upstairs named after a Lebanese prince famed for his boundless hospitality.
Who’s behind it?
Pierre Hobeika is the group’s charismatic MD.
What’s the vibe?
This is some diffusion restaurant. It’s all midnight blues, flock wallpaper and giant slabs of glittering black marble.
Signature dishes
The lunchtime menu rivals the local sandwich chains in price but the quality sets it miles apart with hot sandwiches of kafka (lamb) and taouk (chicken) served with delicious dips – a snip at £5.50. The drinks list features some great cocktails and Lebanese red wine.
Celebrity fans
Britney Spears, Akon, Taio Cruz, Paris Hilton.
Anything else?
Call ahead and lunch will be dispatched drive-by style through the window of your vehicle. Just make sure you don’t get a ticket!
85 Piccadilly, W1, +44 (0)20 7493 3424, www.fakhreldine.co.uk
SHOP STOP
Massis
Situated within the recently developed Paddington Waterside. Look out for a new venue opening in St Christopher’s Place.
Who’s behind it?
Owner Sarkis Kouyoumdjian has branched out from fashion boutiques to restaurants.
What’s the vibe?
Inside it’s a souk-style oasis, with murals of ancient ruins while the outdoor terrace is perfect for smoking a fruit-flavoured shisha pipe.
Signature dishes
You can’t go wrong with the Massis platter – generous helpings of chicken or lamb shawarma, tabouleh, falafel, stuffed vine leaves and hummus. £15 for one or £25 for two.
Celebrity fans
Guy Ritchie and Tony Robinson.
Anything else?
Take afternoon tea – Lebanese style – with baklava, pastries and fresh mint tea.
9 Sheldon Square, W2, +44 (0)20 7286 8000, www.massis.co.uk
