Byblos reborn
Welcome to the Cannes of the Middle East
WORDS | ALEX RAYNER
“IF BEIRUT IS THE PARIS OF THE MIDDLE EAST,” the New York Times wrote earlier this year, “then Byblos, some 22 miles up the coastline, is its Cannes.”
You have probably heard the former comparison, particularly since the American newspaper named Lebanon its number one place to visit in 2009. Yet the latter could come as a surprise for those familiar with this ancient fishing village, more closely associated with papyrus than celluloid.
Nevertheless, Byblos, one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the world, looks set to become this year’s must-visit Mediterranean spot.
The quaint port, also known locally as Jbeil, takes its name from the Greek term for Egyptian papyrus, and was an early communication hub; a type of phonetic script was developed in Byblos which served as a precursor to our modern alphabet. Then in the mid-20th century, when Beirut was truly swinging, American stars like Brando and Sinatra moored their yachts in Byblos. The civil war knocked the destination off most tourists’ itineraries. However, over one million travellers came to Lebanon last July – record figures, according to the country’s tourism ministry – and locals are redoubling their efforts to ensure the crowds keep coming back.
The port’s Roman remains, fossil museum and Crusaders’ castle have drawn highbrow travellers over the years, yet more recent, popular events have truly packed in the crowds. Byblos already has its own pop festival, and last summer the mood on the beach was so permissive
Lebanese lingerie label K-Lynn hosted a waterfront fashion show.
Meanwhile, Byblos Sud, “a unique five-star beach village”, is already offering its villas and apartments for sale, and hopes to open properly this spring. So, get here while there are still free seats at the seafront bars and room for a towel on the shoreline.
A psychic 2010
WANT TO KNOW WHAT ELSE TO EXPECT IN LEBANON THIS YEAR? Then turn to the country’s most famous psychic, the self-styled ‘Millennium Nostradamus’ Michel Hayek. Here are the highlights from his televised 2010 predictions:
- New measures will come into place allowing Lebanese citizens to afford apartments
– Religious tourism will flourish
– There will be further reconciliation between the country’s politicians
– Jordanian archaeological and religious sites will be displayed in a remarkable way
– The relationship between Syria and Egypt will normalise
– A project that aims to replace old cars with new cars for those who wish will be introduced for the first time in Lebanon
– Julio Iglesias will be in the spotlight once again
