Grace and flavour

London’s Langham has got even better

WORDS | ROBINA DAM

[ LONDON ]

FOR A STATEMENT HOTEL, WITH ITS GRANDIOSE ARCHITECTURE AND TOPHATTED DOORMEN, The Langham still manages to exude a sense of comforting familiarity. So on my first visit there, when the friendly doorman greeted me with “Welcome back, madam,” the funny thing is for a moment I believed him and felt as though I were returning. Home? Not quite, given the imposing chandeliers, modern art pieces and lounge music wafting from the Palm Court tearoom. But the friendly check-in staff keep the personal touch going which is why the hotel remains a firm favourite with families; businessmen come here for work and bring the children along at the weekends.

So far, so good; and the recent completion of room upgrading means that they match the service. There are details that other hotels could learn from, such as night lights in the bathroom and some of the best beds in the industry.

After relaunching earlier this year with a refurbishment to the tune of £80 million – thanks to the new owners who took it over from Hilton, shedding not only the name but the decor – everything feels glossy but without losing the traditional English charm.

The mammoth three-year task has paid off: the rooms are more spacious given that the previous 425 rooms now only number 385. Penhaligon’s toiletries meet flatscreen TVs, broadband meets chaise longues. Even conference attendees will want to make time for the cute pool, almost empty at weekends apart from a floating pair of lovers and a father teaching his toddler to swim.

Although the hotel has the air of a grande dame (after all it’s been around since 1865), it’s more a slinky supermodel wearing a couture gown. How so? Well, for starters, a clientele that is cool or corporate meet over cocktails in the Artesian Bar, which has some of the best premium rums in London and is designed in David Collins’s signature opulence.

Talking of starters, the fine dining restaurant The Landau, above, has set the bar high for tasting menus in the capital thanks to chef Elisha Carter. Focused on British provenance where possible, it’s strong on seasonal specialties – whether that is game or fish – from small farmholdings.

For special occasions though you can’t beat the sommelier’s menu, a seven-course extravaganza (£75, or £135 with perfectly matched wines). It’s as much the insight from Franco Becci, the restaurant manager, and head sommelier Zack Saghir, who take you through the meal, that makes this such a memorable gastronomic experience.

The Langham, 1 Portland Place, London W1, +44 (0)20 7636 1000; www.london.langhamhotels.co.uk

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