First Time in: Aberdeen
Oil and granite lie at the heart of this city
WORDS | GRAEME SMITH
NESTLING BETWEEN THE DEE, a great European salmon fishing river, and the River Don on Scotland’s north-east shoulder, Aberdeen is one of the UK’s most fecund cities. For the 8,000 years there has been human settlement here, both the fertile farming land to the west and the North Sea to the east have provided prosperity for its people.
Fishing remains a vital industry, but for the past 40 years the foundation of the city’s wealth has been the oil and gas fields below the waves, which have brought an international flavour to the city, both in terms of business and leisure.
Visitors should consider heading for Aberdeen’s golden sands first. The city’s climate may not often lend itself to sunbathing but that doesn’t deter the hardy swimmers who take a dip in the North Sea virtually every day of the year, no matter the temperature (and the record low for January is -18°C).
At the promenade’s southern end is Footdee (or ‘Fittie’ as it’s locally known), once a quaint fishing village, but now very much a district of the city itself. It opens the door on bygone days when fishwives sat outside their cottages mending the nets and gossiping.
From Fittie’s North Pier you can see the former shipyards where tea clippers like the Thermopylae, the fastest sailing ship of its day, were built and watch supply vessels heading for the oil platforms beyond the horizon.
You can also enjoy this view of Aberdeen Bay from the comfort of the Silver Darling seafood restaurant, one of the city’s finest [Pocra Quay, North Pier, +44 (0)1224 576229; www.silverdarlingrestaurant.co.uk].
Aberdeen’s harbour stretches from Fittie right into the heart of the city near the bus and rail stations and from there it is only a short stroll to Union Street, the city’s historic ‘Granite Mile’.
The district takes its name from the rock most of its buildings were hewn from. Some of the most magnificent constructions can be seen along Queen’s Road, although the majority of the once-grand mansions are now offices or hotels, like the city’s branch of the Malmaison chain [49-53 Queen’s Road, +44 (0)1224 327 370, www.malmaisonaberdeen.com].
Union Street is the gateway to more than 800 shops, five shopping centres, 100 restaurants, 200 bars and 30 nightclubs. Towards the street’s west end, and in small side streets off it, are some of the city’s more exclusive small shops.
At its east end is the Town House with its clock tower and behind it the iconic Marischal College, the second-largest granite building in the world. Marischal is owned by the University of Aberdeen but is soon to become council offices. The rest of the university is now centred around historic King’s College in Old Aberdeen.
Back in the city centre, Aberdeen Art Gallery [Schoolhill, +44 (0)1224 523700; www.aagm.co.uk] houses an important fine art collection and has a wide range of exhibitions.
There are also regular shows at Musa, a former church and banana warehouse which is now an arty café and popular eating place [33 Exchange Street, +44 (0)1224 571771; www.musaartcafe.com].
While there is global cuisine available in this cosmopolitan city, this is the home of Aberdeen Angus cattle. Among the best, though not cheapest, places to enjoy a steak is The Prime Cuts [21 Crown Terrace, +44 (0)1224 590127; www.theprimecuts.co.uk].
Although there are numerous hotels in and around the city centre, it’s vital to book well in advance, particularly for weekdays. They range from budget accommodation to luxury apartments and the city’s only five star hotel, The Marcliffe Hotel and Spa [North Deeside Road, Pitfodels, Aberdeen, +44 (0)1224 861000; www.marcliffe.com].
Pubs and clubs also abound, and offer something to suit every taste in Aberdeen with the Grill [213 Union Street] and the Prince of Wales [7 St Nicholas Lane] being the two most popular traditional city centre watering holes.
And if you want to escape the city noise for some peace and solitude head west to Royal Deeside where the Queen has her Scottish holiday home, Balmoral – open for tours in December.
BUSINESS TIPS FOR ABERDEEN
Robert Collier, Chief Executive of Aberdeen & Grampian Chamber of Commerce
· Don’t assume that all business is done between 9am and 5pm. As the European oil and gas capital, Aberdeen works to a worldwide clock. The business community here has an ingrained habit for breakfast meetings and evening meetings. It’s really a city that behaves like a village. Stay flexible and you will do better business.
· Make your appointments well in advance (ideally five-six weeks) before you go. Many people who work in Aberdeen have frequent visits overseas and to the rest of the UK. Reconfirm your key appointments are going to be around when you visit.
· Take time to enjoy the city and the shire. Aberdeen is one of the few cities in Scotland with a beach and promenade – a great place for a jog or stroll.
· Contact the Aberdeen and Grampian Chamber of Commerce for assistance. We are happy to organise meetings with our members who may be interested in your business. www.agcc.co.uk
