First Time In: Tbilisi
Voyager is charmed by a city of vine-laden walkways and invigorating thermal baths
WORDS: SARAH MARCUS
ON A CLEAR DAY IN TBILISI, GEORGIA’S FORWARD-LOOKING ANCIENT CAPITAL, you can look up, past the old houses with their multicoloured wooden balconies, beyond Rustaveli Avenue, the city’s grand central boulevard, even higher than the many hills which ring the city, and see the majestic Caucasus mountains, snowcapped in winter.
The Caucasus separate Georgia from Russia, and although it was part of the Soviet Union for 70 years, Georgia’s identity remained distinct during the decades of Communist rule. Now, although Tbilisi is rapidly westernising and offers plenty of venues which wouldn’t be out of place in Barcelona or London, it remains a stronghold of Georgian culture and a spirited city full of romance, pride and warmth.
Ravaged by lawlessness in the early post-Soviet period, Tbilisi is now a relatively safe city, thanks to a zero-tolerance policy on crime. What also makes it a relaxing destination is the fact that the centre is relatively small. So if you do decide to take a taxi, the fare should only be around 3-4 lari (roughly £1). Although there are museums and an excellent opera house here [25 Rustaveli Avenue, +995 (32) 93 37 58], the most memorable thing about the city is the mix of the people’s deep veneration of their town’s ancient heritage alongside their eagerness to bring home the best aspects of the modern world.
Soak up the romance by walking up the cobbled streets which climb the city’s hills. On the eastern side of the River Mtkvari, which runs through the centre of Tbilisi, is the old district of Avlabari. The lanes here – they could hardly be called roads – twist their way up steep inclines, past small basement-level shops selling succulent Georgian fruit and vegetables and the tasty local bread, and typical Tbilisi buildings constructed round courtyards with crisscrossing stairways leading to homes.
It’s worth the climb to the top of the hill where you can take in the views from Sameba Cathedral, newly built in the traditional Georgian style, a vast monument which speaks to the importance of Orthodox Christianity in this country. Another eye-catching Avlabari landmark, which you can see from many points in the city, is the glittering, glass-domed presidential administration, a different type of monument which speaks of the flamboyance of Georgia’s president, Mikheil Saakashvili.
While you’re on this side of the city, make your way to the Kopala Hotel [8-10 Chekhovi Street, +995 (32) 77 55 20, a good place to stay, with rooms starting at around £60], and an excellent place to eat. Georgia’s cuisine is delicious and the Kopala’s restaurant does staple fare very well. With stunning views from the terrace it’s a good place for a first or last night meal.
Most of what you are likely to want to see in Tbilisi, however, lies on the other side of the Mtkvari, so cross back to visit the city’s old town. Every city has its founding legend and Tbilisi’s is that King Vakhtang Gorgosali, while out hunting one day in the fifth century, shot a pheasant and fished it fully cooked from the hot sulphur spring into which it had fallen. The king vowed that a city would be born on the site of these natural springs and so it is that Tbilisi got its name – ‘tbili’ meaning warm in Georgian.
Abanotubani is an attractive, grassy square in the old town where the city’s still-functioning sulphur baths lie. Visitors as illustrious as the poet Alexander Pushkin (“Not since my birth have I experienced such luxuriousness as at the Tbilisi baths”) have found a visit to the baths an essential Tbilisi experience. There are several different bathhouses and in any of them you can go communal and bathe with Tbilisi’s grannies and grandads for a few pence, or you can hire a private room for about £20-£40 an hour. It’s as easy to wander in as to make a reservation, but if you do want to book, try Gulo Baths [+995 (32) 72 05 94]. Most are open from mid-morning into the night.
Duly invigorated by the fabled restorative qualities of the sulphur water, climb from Abanotubani up Botanikuri Street, past Tbilisi’s mosque to the Botanical Gardens, a peaceful, lush hideaway. Or walk the other way from Abanotubani, past Tbilisi’s synagogue on Leselidze Street to the buzzing Chardin Street or King Erekle II Street, where the city’s beautiful people hang out in the restaurants, bars and cafés.
The city’s main areas of interest away from the old town are Rustaveli Avenue with its elegant architecture, leafy Mtatsminda and Vera, residential areas which ascend the hills rising above Rustaveli, and fancy Vake, where the restaurants are overpriced and Tbilisi’s rich, both old and new, like to settle.
But wander as you will, it’s likely you’ll find yourself drawn back to the old town by the memories of vine-hung terraces, warren-like lanes and charming, café-lined squares.
For centuries Tbilisi has been a city of conviviality, cuisine and culture and it shows no sign of losing its devotion to those three things for centuries to come.
Business tips for Tbilisi
Jeffrey Kent, founder and director of Well 3, a mineral exploration company, shares his experience of doing business in Georgia
Georgians are pleasant to deal with and will do their utmost to meet your expectations, but nonetheless you should make sure to get a written record of any agreements.
Registering a company in Georgia is a streamlined, hasslefree process which can be done in a matter of days at the tax department.
When you’re close to sealing a deal you will usually be invited to a celebratory supra – a Georgian feast. It’s a great experience but be prepared for the many rounds of toasting that will ensue.
It’s noticeable that people treat you with more respect if you put an effort into your appearance. Though many business people in Georgia may not wear a shirt and tie every day, you should ensure you look smart.
The Georgian approach to meetings can seem chaotic – it can be hard to arrange a meeting far in advance and 10 o’clock can often mean two hours later. Be patient and it should be worth the wait.
