The talented Mr Margiela
A new book sheds light on the elusive designer
IS MARTIN MARGIELA THE FASHION INDUSTRY’S VERY OWN SHAKESPEARE? This might sound like a pompous comparison, yet both men innovated in their respective fields, while leaving precious few biographical details behind. Despite being lauded for his original and inventive collections, the Belgian clothes designer has never submitted to a photo session or given a direct interview.
Less haute couture than counter couture, his items toy with a low-fi, unfinished aesthetic. A Margiela bath robe might be constructed from recycled hotel towels, while a dinner jacket could be copied from a thrift store item bought in San Francisco years before.
Next month sees the publication of a large-format pictorial book (£65), issued to mark the Maison’s 20th anniversary. It’s wonderfully comprehensive, including an essay from his old friend, Jean-Paul Gaultier, yet very little is revealed about the man behind the label.
As the New York Times reported last September, rumour has it that Monsieur Margiela is keen to stop designing and is looking for a successor.
Meanwhile, the brand launches an interiors line next year. Expect plenty of innovation from Maison Martin Margiela, but few private details.
Maison Martin Margiela is published by Rizzoli next month.
www.rizzoliusa.com, www.maisonmartinmargiela.com
