Dining spotlight: London

The new restuarant at St Paul’s Cathedral

Words by Robina Dam

AT A PRIVATE LUNCH CELEBRATING THIS YEAR’S HOLLAND ART CITIES FESTIVAL (promoting the special exhibitions being put on in museums in Amsterdam, Rotterdam, The Hague and Utrecht), the organisers were clearly looking for divine inspiration. “So this used to be a cathedral?” asked one of the foreign delegation, stepping into the Nicolaïkerk [www.nicolaikerk.nl] in Utrecht, a half-hour train journey from Amsterdam. “It still is,” came the reply. “We’re pretty relaxed about things like that.” So it would seem as the church does services on Sunday but isn’t averse to being hired for private functions such as weddings (an obvious fit) or corporate lunches (less normal). A local catering company, whose chef seemed unfazed at setting up a kitchen in the nave, put together a modern European menu for 60 – asparagus of the season, steak and baby vegetables.

Back in Blighty, St Paul’s Cathedral has got in on the act with the launch of the new Restaurant at St Paul’s, tucked away near the self-service canteen.

The menu is, um, parochial, as British produce is sourced whenever possible.

In fact, they keep a hive in Regent’s Park to supply them with honey, put to good use with the unusual honey ice cream and gingerbread pudding. The monthly changing menu has some irresistible dishes: even carnivores would forsake flesh for the moreish Tymsboro goat’s cheese, pine nut and broad bean pasta.

With its calming columns and arched walls, it would make for a really romantic evening meal. At the moment it’s only open for lunches so pray for service to be extended.

The Restaurant at St Paul’s, St Paul’s Cathedral, London EC4, +44 (0)20 7248 2469; www.restaurantatstpauls.co.uk

Photography: © Photolibrary

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