First time in Tel Aviv
At work and at play in Israel’s party capital
Words by Lisa Goldman
FOR MOST FIRST-TIME VISITORS TO ISRAEL, JERUSALEM IS THE MAIN ATTRACTION. With its religious sites and archaeological excavations the capital city definitely feels like you’re in the holy land. Not so Tel Aviv. But it is very much a Levantine city in terms of climate, gastronomy and lifestyle. And Tel Aviv’s residents see it as Israel’s capital of culture, commerce, nightlife and fashion.
Located on the coastal plain, just 45 minutes’ drive from Jerusalem, the beachside city was founded 100 years ago by secular Jews from nearby Jaffa whose world view was influenced by European liberalism. Which is why Tel Aviv today is a hip, young, secular city with a thriving nightlife and a rich cultural scene.
The annual gay pride parade has almost become a family event, attracting straights and gays in equal number. The mayor recently presided over the inauguration of the city’s first municipal gay community centre, in a ceremony that was blessed by a liberal rabbi.
Tel Aviv’s short yet rich history includes a growth spurt that occurred between the early 1930s and 1950s. Building upon a modern urban plan by Sir Patrick Geddes, architects trained in the Bauhaus and Corbusian schools in Europe created over 4,000 residential buildings in the Modern style. The Bauhaus buildings were neglected for years, but have earned fame and renovation since 2003, when Unesco designated Tel Aviv a world heritage site. For exhibitions about the city’s architectural heritage, plus guided tours in English, visit the Bauhaus Center of Tel Aviv [99 Dizengoff Street, +972 (0)3 5220249, www.bauhaus-center.com].
It’s easy to orient yourself in Tel Aviv, which was built along the sea from south to north. Driving, though, is another matter altogether. Local drivers are perilously aggressive and parking is notoriously difficult to find. Taxis are a more efficient option. To avoid being fleeced, insist that the driver turn on his meter rather than negotiating a “special price”. Be sure to pay in low-denomination currency; it’s not customary to tip taxi drivers.
Most of the city’s hotels face the seashore, with the five-star David Intercontinental anchoring the south end and the Hilton at the north end.
But luxury accommodation is generally a disappointment in Tel Aviv: prices are high but standards are low while service is unprofessional at best and surly at worst. High-end boutique hotels like the Montefiore [36 Montefiore Street, +972 (0)3 564 6100, www.hotelmontefiore.co.il] and the Nina Café Hotel [29 Shabazi Street, +972 (0)52 508 4141, www.ninacafehotel.com] offer the holy trio of high standards, personal service and elegance.
In terms of dining options one is rather spoiled for choice. Over the past decade Tel Aviv has become quite the foodie town. The focus at Tel Aviv’s high-end restaurants is on local ingredients prepared in French-influenced, Levantine style.
Located in a gorgeously renovated Ottoman-era house at the edge of Neve Tzedek, Catit’s kitchen [4 Heichal Hatalmud Street, +972 (0)3 510 7001, www.catil.co.il] is presided over by the chef who won a reality television show last year.
For hummus, Abu Hassan’s on Dolphin Street in Jaffa is the holy grail. Expect to queue on weekends (Friday-Saturday), and it’s always best to arrive early, because the daily batch is usually finished by 2pm. If you’re in Jaffa and want a casual-but-delicious meal that does not include hummus, try the charming Pua Café on tiny Rabbi Yohanan Street [+972 (0)3 682 3821] in the Jaffa flea market. The market is a major attraction on its own, well worth visiting for the unique local atmosphere.
The restored ancient port of Jaffa, with its flagstone paths and sea view, is an easy walk from the market.
If it’s not too hot, a walk along the Tel Aviv boardwalk, starting from Jaffa port, is an excellent way to see and experience the city. Don’t even think of doing this during the summer months – but September onwards is perfect.
Neve Tzedek, a restored 19th-century neighbourhood that feels like an artist’s colony, is just past Jaffa. It’s definitely worth putting aside half a day to explore its architecture and fashionable shops and cafés.
Hip designers have clustered their boutiques in the Electricity Garden area, on Barzilai, Haheshmal, Levontin and Mikveh Israel Streets. For high-end local designers, visit northern Dizengoff Street; international fashion labels can be found in the boutiques clustered around Kikar Hamedina (State Square).
The nightspots are spread all over the city, but there are some areas with high concentrations of clubs and bars. Specifically, look for Tel Aviv’s legendary nightlife at Lilienblum Street, the North Port, the Masger area and Vital Street in the southern neighbourhood of Florentin.
In the end, Tel Aviv can be what you want it to be – a place to do business, enjoy a resort-style holiday, immerse oneself in contemporary Hebrew culture or a party town with a legendary nightlife. What it won’t be is boring.
Business tips for TEL AVIV
Local entrepreneur and owner of the Montefiore hotel and brasserie, Mati Broudo, offers his advice
. If Israelis want to get ahead in pretty much any business other than food retail, they have to look towards international markets. Even though Fridays and Saturdays are weekends in Tel Aviv, many professionals will work to accommodate American and European business hours and days of the week.
. In terms of dress and conduct, business travellers should follow a New York model. Shorts aren’t acceptable business attire, even in August, and shaking hands is the appropriate way to greet contacts. If you were to meet an Orthodox Jewish woman, the custom is not to shake hands.
. Don’t be afraid to express an opinion on the Arab/Israel conflict while you’re in town. Israelis are pretty outspoken and a wide range of opinions are held in various quarters across Tel Aviv’s society.
. Tel Aviv is a hi-tech city. You can enjoy better Wi-ficonnectivity than in the US. Most coffee shops offer free access, for example. Expect to keep in touch.
