First Time In… Jeddah
Alex Rayner revels in the old world and new wonders of Saudi’s second city
“If Riyadh is New York, Jeddah is San Francisco,” said our German concierge at the Jeddah Hilton. We were looking down from the viewing deck on the hotel’s 12th floor at the time. Though the sight was striking, I resisted the temptation to put flowers in my hair.
This somewhat over-enthusiastic comparison does hold, though. Jeddah is the principal port on the Saudi side of the Red Sea and a key economic hub. Before the rise of the oil industry, Saudi was primarily a trading nation and the commercial harbour remains busy to this day.
Muslim worshippers from across the globe disembark in Jeddah on their Hajj (25–29 November this year) and Umrah pilgrimages (undertaken on any date). Thanks to their cosmopolitan footfall, the city has developed a rich multicultural mix unlike other Saudi cities.
Jeddah is also a seaside resort, with seafront promenades, playgrounds and restaurants. All these factors have contributed to Jeddah’s relatively lax social climate – while religious laws are observed just as diligently here as they are in Riyadh, the city manages to dispel the pall of piety that hangs over the more observant of Saudi cities.
According to a tenacious yet unlikely legend, Jeddah is also the final resting place of Eve, the Biblical first woman. Some say the city’s name is derived from the Arabic word for grandmother, while others insist that Eve’s body lies in the Hawa Cemetery, northeast of the Al-Balad district. Non-Muslims aren’t allowed to visit the tomb, yet the claims go some way to illustrate that in Jeddah, unlike other Arabian cities, the ancient and modern rub along together quite easily.
You are likely to see the newer side first, when you arrive into the King Abdulaziz International Airport. Be sure to look out for the Hajj terminal, a huge, open-air pavilion which, while empty for most of the year, processes around one million pilgrims within a few days each autumn.
Most of the upmarket hotels, such as the Hilton, lie south of the airport, along the seafront strip, or corniche. This 12-storey building has attracted a good mix of business and leisure visitors since it opened in 1997 (rooms start at around £250). We used the outdoor pool, drank at Café Vienna and tried the Persian restaurant, Al Khayam, which is said to the best in the city.
Though the Hilton is only a few miles from the downtown, historic district of Al-Balad, it’s wise to catch a cab, rather than walk; even a short stroll in the Saudi sun will leave you soaked in sweat. Agree on a price before the passenger door shuts and you’ll save yourself some riyals.
Rather than prizing their older buildings, upwardly mobile Saudis have fled this more ancient side of the city, leaving handsome old buildings to the guest workers and poorer sections of society. This is a pity, as the streets of Al-Balad are far prettier than the new builds to the north. Though their structural integrity might leave something to be desired, their intricate mashrabiyyahs, or dark wooden shutters, are certainly worth snapping.
During an early morning stroll in Al-Balad we drank some sweet local coffee and ate fresh chapattis, cooked before us by Indian guest workers. It’s a minimal cost but the wealth of cultural insight is considerable.
It’s hard to do anything in Jeddah’s midday heat; better to retire to your hotel room or shelter in the air-con bliss of somewhere like the Oasis or Red Sea malls, where locals while away their leisure hours.
Late afternoon and early evening are the best times to visit the corniche. Again, Al-Balad is a good place to start. The district lies at the southern end and hosts a great array of souks, where you can pick up anything from loofahs to ladies’ underwear.
Further along the coast, you can take in the city’s world-famous collection of international modern sculpture. These public works were commissioned by the city’s former mayor, Mohamed Said Farsi, and were installed on the shorefront from the mid-1970s onwards. There are four Henry Moore sculptures, as well as work by Joan Miró and Jean Arp. Newer additions, such as giant birthday cakes and ceramic sea scenes, may be of more questionable artistic merit, yet still go some way to brighten the city.
Finally, stop by King Fahd’s fountain, the world’s tallest, shooting a column of water a record-breaking 312 metres into the air. It’s well lit at night, and the falling spray looks mesmerising in the twilight. We might not be in California, yet Jeddah can, at times, prove just as dreamy.
Owain Raw-Rees, chairman of the Riyadh Group for British Business, brings together some of his members’ words of advice
• Do not be put off by ‘multiple’ meetings. It’s not unusual to attend an appointment and find that other unconnected people are already there or join you later. It’s all part of the ‘getting to know you’ culture.
• Beware of exclusive arrangements when negotiating representation in the Kingdom. Depending on the industry sector, you may need to consider different arrangements for different products or separate agents for separate regions.
• Always make an allowance for re-visiting the Kingdom. Doing business in Saudi requires a long-term commitment and you will be expected to meet your contacts in person on a regular basis.
• ‘Insh’allah’ literally means ‘If Allah wills it’, or ‘God-willing’. However, it is used with regard to forthcoming events and has an air of fatalism, which can’t be readily expressed in English. You may hear it peppered throughout conversations on a daily basis. For example: “I will see you tomorrow, Insh’allah”, “We will work together, Insh’allah.”
• Men should avoid wearing shorts, short-sleeved or unbuttoned shirts.
• Seek advice on what is acceptable clothing before you arrive and take care not to offend.
