Zuhair Murad
The Lebanese designer dressing the world’s A-list
The Tailor of Lebanon
Fashion designer Zuhair Murad is making his mark in the world of couture. Laura Latham discovers why he prefers his home city of Beirut to the glitter of Hollywood
THE NAME ZUHAIR MURAD may not be as instantly recognisable as, say, Donatella Versace or Alexander McQueen but it can only be a matter of time before this Lebanese fashion designer becomes equally known for his extravagant style. In just 10 years his opulent gowns have travelled from a small Beiruti showroom to gracing red carpets from LA to Moscow. In this, he is following another successful compatriot, Elie Saab, whose creation Halle Berry wore when she won her Oscar.
Celebrities such as Vanessa Williams and Heather Graham, Christina Aguilera and Haifa Wehbe reportedly love his elegant, romantic creations, which are famous for their fine-jewelled beading and soft, sexy shapes. “Women tell me they love the style and glamour of my clothes, the detail and fabrics I use,” Murad tells me from his showroom, in between trips abroad. “All women desire to feel special and I want my gowns to help them realise their dream.”
Murad, 35, wanted to be a designer from an early age; even as a child he was fascinated by colour, fabric and pattern. After training at the Paris School of Fashion Design in the early 1990s, he confidently returned home to open his own studio in 1995. Within two years he had established a well-heeled client list and in 1999 launched his first international collection in Rome.
“Some people are surprised to find an international fashion designer in Beirut – but Lebanon is like the Switzerland of the Middle East,” he explains. “It’s the focus of art, culture and design. Beirut is a cosmopolitan city and fashion and beauty are very important. Once people started seeing my work it was very easy for me to receive clients from all over the Middle East.”
Those early achievements have rapidly translated into global success. Murad now designs two haute couture collections a year for the international market, plus prêt-à-porter ranges and a line of menswear. He currently sells through exclusive boutiques all over the world, including London, Riyadh and Moscow, and has showrooms in Paris and Beirut. Plans to open showrooms in London, Beijing and Moscow are also on the cards. “I’m proud of my success in the Middle East but it was always my ambition to be international,” says Murad.
While his ornate beading and bespoke creations placed him at the luxury end of the fashion world, Murad has also designed signature collections for global retail chain Mango, which are available almost exclusively in the Middle East. The clothing tends to reflect the shapes, bright colours and softly draped fabrics that are popular with that particular market and include attention to detailing such as embroidered cuffs, sequins and floral motifs.
PPRICES START AT around €60 – a good opportunity for those without Hollywood budgets to clothe themselves in his style. “Mango was a great opportunity and a challenge for me,” he says, “because it’s an international brand and the clothes had to be accessible and affordable.”
And the designer is not snobby about the fact that the Mango partnership means his clothes are as likely to be seen in the high street as at the Oscars. “Ultimately, I’m trying to achieve the same goal – to help the women who wear my clothes feel sexy, romantic and good about themselves. Fashion should be accessible to everyone.”
There’s no denying, however, that it’s his celebrity client list that has brought Murad the most attention. Every public appearance of his gorgeous gowns – Hollywood star Beyoncé wore one to a film premiere at the end of last year – is scrutinised by style watchers, who are consistent in their admiration.
As someone who exists at the cutting edge of the luxury industry, Murad knows it would be naive to think business won’t suffer as a result of the economic downturn. “Last season was very difficult for many designers, some chose not to present on the catwalk but have smaller events in their showrooms.” However, he remains optimistic and says, though he’s watching the market with caution, he is still keen to expand.
“As well as the new boutiques, I’m currently working hard on my collections for 2010 but I don’t like to talk about what I’m doing in advance. After all, I change my mind all the time and I like to keep things a surprise.”
Outsiders might think Murad has fast-tracked onto the global stage, no mean feat in an industry notorious for being difficult. “It does seem to some people that it’s been quick and easy for me,” he laughs, “but they haven’t seen all the hard work that goes into everything. I have good people around me but there’s a lot to do: designing and preparing collections, liaising with clients, organising events and shows.”
He reflects on this for a moment. “But I’m very happy. There are many designers in the world who are not as lucky as me.”
Murad’s showroom is at 23 Melrose Building, 33 Omar Daouk Street, Beirut, +961 1 984985; www.zuhairmurad.com.lb
ADDRESS BOOK
DISCOVER MURAD’S DESIGNS IN OUR OTHER DESTINATIONS:
London
Ricci Burns, 25G Lowndes Street, +44 (0)20 7823 1555
Leeds
Helen Sykes, 217-219 Stanningley Road, +44 (0)113 231 0610
Zurich
Walter Gross, 22 Bahnhofstrasse, +41 44 221 1748
Kiev
Centro Ex, PO Box a/c, 42, +38 0444 935133
Riyadh
Centria Mall, Olaya Road, +966 (1) 216 1116
Moscow
Cleopatra, Nikolaeva Str 4 Bld1, +78 722 621510
