Take The High Road
Glasgow is the gateway to Scotland’s world-class mountain biking centre
MOUNTAIN HIGH
The world’s best mountain bikers come to Fort William this month. But the rest of the year, amateurs are just as welcome
WORDS | BEN MONDY
WHEN YOU THINK OF GLASGOW, WHAT SPRINGS TO MIND? Perhaps it is the famous rivalry between Celtic and Rangers football clubs. Or maybe the music scene featuring the likes of Belle & Sebastian, Franz Ferdinand or Snow Patrol.
What may come as more of a surprise is that Scotland’s largest city is increasingly seen as the gateway to one of the world’s elite mountain biking centres. For 100 miles to the north of Glasgow lies Fort William, the home, hub and heart of all things mountain biking.
The town sits at the foothills of the Nevis Range and is only seven miles from the Nevis Range ski and bike area. It is here that back in 2001 the fantastic terrain and numerous natural bike trails, favourable access laws and Forestry Commission foresight combined to create the template for the ultimate mountain biking centre. This fortuitous, and extremely rare combination of geography and government led to the development of some of the world’s best single-track trails. And if that wasn’t enough, the Nevis ski area then built a downhill trail under its mountain gondola system, which to this day is the only gondola-serviced mountain bike trail in the UK. This surge in infrastructure led to Fort William hosting its first Downhill World Cup in 2002. The following year it added a Cross Country World Cup and since then has become one of the classic events on the World Cup tour, leading to it hosting a successful stand-alone world championships in 2007.
THE CENTRE IS SET UP TO ACCOMMODATE EVERYONE, from eight-year-old beginners to world champions. One such world champion is Steve Peat, an Englishman who has won three downhill world titles. Peat has been riding Fort William since the very start and says its big selling point is the wide variety of trails.
“Very few mountain biking locations build dedicated trails for downhill and cross-country riding,” Peat tells Voyager. “That’s what you have in Scotland and is why it is really pushing the way forward in terms of catering for all levels of mountain bike riding.”
As you would expect, there are many bike shops, either in the town or on the mountain, where you can hire all your gear. All the trails are colour coded, like ski slopes, to make sure you stick to the terrain that best suits your ability. Over time you aim to progress from the simple green runs, through to blue, red and finally black. I remember tackling my first ever black run at Fort William, the Witches Loop, a 15-kilometre long technical route that is also used for the World Cup Cross Country, managing to survive despite trembling the whole length with a mix of fear, excitement and in the end, fatigue. Other trails, like the Cour Loop, are graded blue and are easier rides designed to take in the incredible scenery. For those with expert knowledge, or a screw loose, the Holy Grail is the Fort William Downhill, the actual run that is used in the World Cup, known as one of the most treacherous in the world.
In mountain biking terms it is akin to being on centre court at Wimbledon or driving off the first tee at Augusta – just with a much higher possibility of breaking your collar bone.
Apart from the quality of the riding, scenery and infrastructure, the town of Fort William itself is full of activity, especially in summer. You can take your pick of a wide range of après bike activities that include golf, whisky tasting, movie location spotting (both Rob Roy and Braveheart were filmed close by) and sailing on nearby Laggan Lochs.
If, however, the mountain biking provides enough exertion (and if you are doing it right, it jolly well should) there are plenty of good restaurants and pubs that will have you revived for the next day’s riding or set for the return journey through the glorious Scottish countryside to Glasgow. You’ll never think of the place in quite the same way again.
The UCI Mountain Bike World Cup, 6-7 June.
Ben Mondy is co-author of Mountain Biking Europe (Footprint Books), www.footprintbooks.com
GETTING THERE:
Glasgow International Airport is 100 miles south of Fort William. Take a bus or train direct to Glasgow City terminal then change for Fort William. Or Ga-Taxis [www.ga-taxis.co.uk] can take you all the way from Glasgow Airport into Fort William Town.
NOT TO MISS: In good weather a trip up Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain, is a must.
REMEMBER TO AVOID: Taking a run down a track without walking it first.
NEAREST BIKE/HIRE SHOP: Off Beat Bikes [www.offbeatbikes.co.uk] is the specialist bike shop in the town. They have a fully equipped workshop and also hire out bikes from both the shop on the high street and also from the Nevis Range building itself.
GOOD LOCAL ACCOMMODATION: Unless your stay coincides with the UCI Mountain Bike World Cup, you’re not going to have any problems finding somewhere to stay in Fort William.
There are plenty of hotels such as the Cruarchan [ +44 (0)1397 702022, www.cruachanhotel.co.uk ] and bed and breakfasts like Burntree House [+44 (0)1397 701735], FOR FURTHER INFORMATION: visit www.ridefortwilliam.co.uk There is also a local club which organises fun competitions and regular rides for those in the area – www.whwheelers.org
