First Time In Riyadh
Where to stay, eat and drink in the Saudi capital
Fifty years ago, Riyadh was a small town – now it’s a modern metropolis of more than five million inhabitants. Alex Rayner explores the Saudi capital
RIYADH FEELS VERY NEW. Most of the city was built after the foundation of OPEC and its boundaries are still expanding. Add cheap petrol, remove any hint of public transportation, institute the kind of inter-vehicle etiquette that would make a Neapolitan cab driver blush, and you can understand why some first-time visitors find it a bit overwhelming.
Newbies should bear in mind that 1) Riyadh retains something of a grid-style street layout, with the north-south King Fahd Road running beside most places you’ll want to visit; and 2) cabs are cheap and often driven by expats from the Islamic diaspora (such as Pakistan, Bangladesh, the Philippines) who speak good English. Get a price for a trip before you close the passenger doors: you’ll often beat the meter rates.
For travellers who have grown up in more liberal countries, Saudi’s strict morality laws come as a bit of a shock too, particularly the rules that outlaw social interaction between men and women (unless they’re married or otherwise related). You should stick to the rules, yet don’t be surprised to see women about on the street, in malls and cafés – even if they’re usually fully veiled. Expect a pleasant level of buddyish warmth in bars, restaurants and hotels, and look out for a fraternal amity among single-sex groups when they, say, take coffee on the pavement cafés of Tahlia Street.
Those with deep pockets and poor map-reading skills should book into the Four Seasons at the Kingdom Centre [+966 (1) 2115000, www.fourseasons.com]. This place has its own racquetball, squash and tennis courts and its lobby is at the foot of the country’s tallest skyscraper (pictured). You’ll find it easy to find your way home.
If they’re full, try the Rosewood-owned Al Faisaliah hotel [King Fahd Road, +966 (1) 273 2000, www.alfaisaliahhotel.com], which is equally plush with pools, sauna and spa, housed in the city’s second tallest building, the Al Faisaliah Tower. Both towers are within easy reach of the city’s business district and have their own malls on the lower floors. Al Faisaliah mall even its own branch of Harvey Nichols.
For something earthier, go for the souks in the downtown Qusman and Batha districts. Qusam specialises in gold, while Batha sells everything from plugs to pistachios. There are also some great hole-in-the-wall restaurants here, though its advisable for Westerners to avoid this area during and after evening prayers. Shooting pictures is tricky too.
While we’re on the subject, non-Muslims should take care when photographing mosques, and government buildings are also off-limits. In particular don’t try to shoot the incredible-looking, octagonal concrete UFO just to the north-west of the junction of King Faisal and Al Ma’ather streets: it’s the interior ministry.
For food, The Globe (contact details as Al Faisaliah hotel) is the city’s finest Western-style restaurant, serving everything from Kobe beef through to lobster bisque. Mirage [Al-Takhassosi Rd, +966 (1) 4834127] offers haute Chinese dining.
Alcohol is of course banned throughout Saudi Arabia. However, if you’re after a nightcap, you could do worse than visit Enigma [Olaya Street, +966 (1) 2176220, www.enigmacoffee.com], a Moroccan-run coffee house close to the Al Faisaliah mall. Aside from coffee, they also serve soft drinks and a little food.
