Stage presence
Clothing designer and artist, Henrik Vibskov explains to Lauren Cochrane how doing ‘stupid things’ in Denmark has led to surprising success THE FASHION WORLD has genes to thank for the Danish-born Henrik Vibskov becoming a designer. “As a child, I was more into breakdancing,” he says. “But I became very tall.” Doing the windmill, then, [...]
Clothing designer and artist, Henrik Vibskov explains to Lauren Cochrane how doing ‘stupid things’ in Denmark has led to surprising success
THE FASHION WORLD has genes to thank for the Danish-born Henrik Vibskov becoming a designer. “As a child, I was more into breakdancing,” he says. “But I became very tall.” Doing the
windmill, then, gave way to design for 6-foot 4-inch Vibskov and he has since brought some fun to the catwalks. His hyper-eccentric style is guaranteed to make even po-faced front row folk crack a
smile. “Menswear is allowed to be funny and more playful, which I appreciate a lot,” says the 36-yearold Dane.
Although part of a growing set of Danish designers like Peter Jensen, eco-label Noir and Camilla Staerk, Vibskov’s world is very much his own. Graduating
from London art school Central Saint Martins in 2001, he works primarily in menswear. Showing at Copenhagen Fashion Week, he is the only Danish designer to
also showcase his designs in Paris. Collections have titles like ‘The Tent City’ and ‘The Fantabulous Bicycle Music Factory’ and feature everything from flowery corduroy
suits to floor-length multi-coloured blankets, cropped jackets and Bay City Roller-style hats.
“I can just let go and do stupid things,” he laughs.
Vibskov is doing himself a disservice, however. His ‘stupid’ things have seen him gain a significant following in the fashion industry and beyond.
As well as making people smile, there are pieces in Vibskov’s collections that make people pick up their credit cards (prices range from around €70 for a T-shirt to €300 for
a jacket). Pop appeals to us all. Take his vivid prints, trademark bow-tie shirts and simply smart tailoring. They might have been created in Vibskov’s colourful world but they work to brighten up a grey day outside the
catwalk too.
For proof, look to his stockists: the designer sells his wares around the world – in New York, Seoul, Moscow, London and new territories Ivory Coast and Pakistan – and boasts his
own store in his base, Copenhagen. He has also delved into different markets with a recent collaboration with baby stroller manufacturer Quinny. So, is this commercial
mindedness a conscious strategy? Yes and no. “Fashion is a product in the end, but I don’t think I could design with the market in mind,” he says. “I am lucky that people like the things
I do.” They do indeed – although he never gives out clothes to celebrities, some big names have worn his clothes: Kanye West, Arctic Monkeys and Franz Ferdinand are fans.
Perhaps these musicians see a kindred spirit in Vibskov. Something of a renaissance man, he drums for electronic musician and fellow Dane, Trentemøller, and creates fine art
installations in an array of galleries around the world. His show at the New York’s PSI Gallery was based around American culture, featuring Band-Aids and comments on the US’s
involvement in the Iraq war.
His latest creation, The Fringe Project, is in the Netherlands. Collaborating with Swedish artist Andreas Emenius to “splatter fringes over all kinds of objects”, the result will “perform a makeover” on Zeeuws
Museum’s historical permanent collection.
Although his work takes him all over the world, Vibskov (who was born in Jutland, rural Denmark) is most at home in Copenhagen, where he is now based. He praises
the “fruitful interaction” of the creative scene and also the peaceful environment of the Dyrehaven, a deer park outside of Copenhagen’s centre where Vibskov has staged an
installation. “One takes the driveway that goes along the beach, with a wonderful view and some famous buildings of Arne Jacobsen,” he says. After the riotous excitement of
Vibskov’s collections, it’s the perfect place to find peace – and maybe indulge in a spot of breakdancing.
Visit Vibskov’s flagship store Krystalgade 6 (1172 København K, Copenhagen, www.henrikvibskov.com). The Fringe Project runs at the Zeeuws Museum until 7 June
(www.zeeuwsmuseum.nl).
The Tent City
With his current collection entitled ‘The Tent City’, Vibskov wanted to work with geometric forms, to create pieces where triangles, squares and circles were the stars. “We used triangles and
contrast, which evokes a strong tension,” he says. “but the collection is still relaxed and comfy.” Some may disagree.
08/09 collection
Hazards were fashionable for Vibskov’s autumn/winter 2008/09 collection. Models wore these long fringes covering half their faces and walked through a catwalk of blow-up tubes of green fabric. “It looked a little rough,
that’s true,” says Vibskov. “We emphasised that mood with guards sort of shouting at the guests.” And the models? You’ll be pleased to know they came through the ordeal unscathed.
Inspirations
With Vibskov moving from 19th-century London for spring/ summer to Quaker style for autumn/winter 2009/10, past traditions are always important to this designer but he brings
his inspiration bang up-to-date. As to what he’ll be doing next, who’s to say? “I don’t know what’s going to happen tomorrow,” he says, frankly, “or even today.”
Art installations
Vibskov is also becoming known for his art installations. For Vibskov, the two things exist together and apart. “Sometimes, I use elements from the installations for the collections and the
installations always breathe the mood of the collection, but they can really stand alone,” he says.
