LondonTables
The Congo comes to England and an Italian that issues its own credit cards The Double Club 7 Torrens Street, EC1, +44 (0)20 7837 2222; www.thedoubleclub.co.uk As joint ventures go, when artist Carsten Höller of Tate Modern fame (he did the oversized slides) got together with restaurateur Mourad Mazouz, the result was certainly going to be unusual. So when [...]
The Congo comes to England and an Italian that issues its own credit cards
The Double Club
7 Torrens Street, EC1, +44 (0)20 7837 2222;
www.thedoubleclub.co.uk
As joint ventures go, when artist Carsten Höller of Tate Modern fame (he did the oversized slides) got together with restaurateur Mourad Mazouz, the result was certainly going to be unusual. So when they recently launched The Double Club, their pop-up restaurant, bar and disco in a side street behind Angel tube station (and just a 10-minute taxi hop from the Square Mile), it was as a half- Congolese, half-Western project.
Literally so, as the hangar-like bar area has a dividing line down the middle (the Congolese bar tables are white plastic, you get the drift) and the menu too is evenly split by cuisines. But even for London, which already seems to have almost every type of food under the sun, Congolese remains uncharted territory. Could the Double Club do for the Congo what Mazouz did for Moroccan cooking when he opened Momo in Heddon Street?
At first glance, the ‘safer’ choices are obviously the classic Western dishes, such as halibut with wilted greens and fondant potatoes (£16) or pan-roasted duck breast with confit leg (£19). But it’s a shame not to go all out on the other part of the menu which is perfect for sharing: Kossa Kossa, giant spicy shrimps (£11) and Fumbwa, yam leaves with peanut paste and salted fish (£8.50) are particularly delicious. Goat stew (£10) is more pungent and there’s an interesting take on the nose-to-tail eating with the African version of pigs’ trotters casserole.
There are other benefits to dining here: you can bypass any guest list issues for the club nights; and 50 percent of the profits are donated to charity in the Congo. The pop-up period has been extended so catch this while you can.
Robina Dam
Vapiano
19-21 Great Portland Street, W1, +44 (0)20 7268 0082,
www.vapiano.co.uk
First thing: there are no waiters in this Italian restaurant. Second: you’re given a credit card on the way in. And this, before you get too disorientated, is how you do it: choose whichever pizza, pasta or salad dish you fancy from the open kitchen, and swipe. Each chef has two hefty chrome pans with the ingredients chopped and ready to go. Take your pick from the more basic sauces (from £6.50) such as spicy arrabiata or aglio e olio, or pay a bit extra for more surprising combinations (£8.50 max): lobster sauce, anyone? Pop it on the card; ready in two minutes. Pizzas take a bit longer, so once you’ve placed your order (toppings include salami, fresh figs and honey), the chefs hand over a gizmo that flashes when it’s ready.
Whack it on the plastic then just swipe and pay on the way out. It’s quick, convenient and since everyone has their own tab there are no more ‘I only had a panna cotta’ arguments when the bill comes. Not that many will be complaining about the price: you could easily enjoy three courses and a glass of glorious red for under £20. Convenience food never tasted so good.
Rosanna Negrotti
