A Dream Come Shoe
Interview | Francesca Lombardo The king of shoes, René Caovilla, puts his highheeled artwork on exhibition in a Venetian gallery FROM FAIRY TALES TO cult television series, from classic movies to real life, shoes have had an iconic role to play in seduction and femininity. And, when it comes to designing them, arguably the Italians [...]
Interview | Francesca Lombardo
The king of shoes, René Caovilla, puts his highheeled artwork on exhibition in a Venetian gallery
FROM FAIRY TALES TO cult television series, from classic movies to real life, shoes have had an iconic role to play in seduction and femininity. And, when it comes to designing them, arguably the Italians do it better. Celebrated designer René Caovilla, born and bred in Venice, has turned the craft of shoemaking into a sophisticated art by producing some of the most breathtaking creations seen in footwear. Over the years, Elizabeth Taylor and Nancy Reagan to Sharon Stone, Sarah Jessica Parker and Uma Thurman have all worn his “pieces of art”.
The best of Caovilla’s creations, dating back to 1940, are now to be exhibited at the gallery-museum close to his shoe factory near Venice. And while his store in Venice remains a fashionista destination, he has recently launched a boutique in London’s Bond Street.
How did you start your career?
My father was a real pioneer. In the early 1920s he had a small workshop for women’s shoes. When he then visited the US he realised that the market was particularly receptive to luxury and jewelled shoes. In 1937 the brand was born.
As a child I remember growing up surrounded by the smell of leather – I was hanging out at his workshop while he was working. At some point, I took the plunge and decided to dedicate my life to the fashion industry.
Did you travel too?
Yes, I spent six months in Paris, when I was in my twenties, then I went to London. Travelling was a very formative experience – I picked up a lot about trends and moods in the fashion industry.
You are also renowned for your collaboration with the likes of Valentino, Dior and Christian Lacroix. How did this come about?
Teaming up with the biggest names in the fashion industry helped me to take the brand to a whole new level. My collaboration with Valentino has been particularly important. I realised there was a great synergy between his clothes and our shoes. One day I called him up – at the time there were fewer gatekeepers and people were more accessible.
We met up and I was on board. Our collaboration has been going on for 25 years.
What makes Caovilla shoes special?
Attention to details, the quality and vertiginous heels. Every shoe is like a piece of art. Creativity is everything.
What materials do you use?
Expensive leather, precious gems, Swarovski crystals but also refined embroidery, expensive brooches, silk, fur and precious metals.
How would you define the concept behind Caovilla shoes?
Dreams.
And the woman who wears them?
A woman who wants to live her life like a dream. Caovilla shoes are not for everyday life – they’re not for running in the street but for someone who knows how to dress glamorously and with elegance. When I imagine a woman who wears my shoes, I think of a woman who sits with her legs elegantly crossed. My shoes should be the last things to take off before going to bed.
Boutique Londra, 37 Old Bond Street, London W1, +44 (0)20 7499 9802; Boutique Venezia, San Marco 1296, +39 041 5238038, www.caovilla.it
