First Time In… Kiev
Empires have fought over Kiev – bmi’s newest destination – for centuries. But the self-confident capital of Ukraine is now opening itself up to the world FROM THE MONGOLS to Peter the Great, all the leading emperors and warlords of Eurasia have set their sights on Kiev at one time or another. It is said [...]
Empires have fought over Kiev – bmi’s newest destination – for centuries. But the self-confident capital of Ukraine is now opening itself up to the world
FROM THE MONGOLS to Peter the Great, all the leading emperors and warlords of Eurasia have set their sights on Kiev at one time or another. It is said that the city changed hands 18 times alone during the 1917-21 Russian Civil War, when it was occupied alternately by Poles, Germans, Bolsheviks, Whites, Greens, Anarchists and various hastily declared Ukrainian national governments. Kiev author Mikhail Bulgakov captured the madness which gripped the city at the time in his novel White Guard set in his home, which is today the Bulgakov Museum [13 Andriyivskiy Uzviz, +38 (044) 4163188]. It remains in period style except for numerous whitewashed pieces of furniture and exhibits which have been added for literary effect. Bulgakov’s satires eventually got him into trouble with Stalin, but his Kiev masterpiece was said to be one of the dictator’s favourite works on the Civil War.
There are few monuments to commemorate the last great political upheaval to rock Ukraine, the 2004 Orange Revolution, but the National Post Office on Independence Square does have a section of glassed-off graffiti from that time on permanent display on one of its central columns. For a window into the creative impulses driving modern Ukraine, guests should head to the modern art mecca the Pinchuk Art Centre [1-3/2 Arena City, Baseyna Street, +38 (044) 5900858, www.pinchukartcentre.org], which has brought modern art into the Ukrainian high street and provided a stage for the country’s post-independence generation.
Kiev’s most iconic monument remains the Motherland statue, which towers above the Dnieper river. Built in 1981 by the Soviet authorities to commemorate the Red Army’s victory in World War II, this gigantic lady is the fifth tallest freestanding statue in the world.
Finding places to stay is no longer tricky, with the Hyatt Regency Kiev [5 Tarasova Street, +38 (044) 5811234] offering world-class service and the riverside Riviera [15 Sagaydachnoho Street, +38 (044) 5812828] being just one of a number of boutique hotels looking to capitalise on the growing international business and tourist traffic passing through Kiev.
Ukraine’s role as the great crossroads of Eurasia is reflected in a diverse Kiev dining culture, with local favourites including Caucasian and Soviet Asian cuisine. Kazbek [30a Lesya Ukrainka Boulevard, +38 (044) 2854805] offers a great range of Georgian and Armenian dishes and is also a fun place to witness the elite at play, while Marocana [24 Lesya Ukrainka Boulevard, +38 (044) 2544999] is achingly trendy and boasts a fusion menu that reflects influences from as far afield as Uzbekistan and North Africa.
While the 2005 decision to lift visa restrictions on EU and other Western visitors has encouraged the likes of stag parties and more raucous gatherings, Kiev bar life remains vibrant and welcoming, as you’d expect in a city which has served as a great border capital for so long. The Bierstube [20 Chervonoarmiyska Street, +38 (044) 2359472] is something of a modern Kiev institution which dates back to the late 1990s and remains a popular haunt, while live music fans will love the underground vibe of Art Club 44 [44 Khreshchatyk Street, +38 (044) 2794137].
For an eye on high-rolling Kiev in all its diamond-encrusted faux glory, well-heeled guests and party people are advised to head for the splendidly named Decadence House [16 Shota Rostaveli Street, +38 (044) 2064920] which serves as both a restaurant and late-night VIP disco on Fridays and Saturdays.
Peter Dickinson
