Easy, Peasy Lebanesy
It’s delicious, colourful and healthy – no wonder Lebanese cuisine is becoming increasingly popular. Now a top chef reveals how it is also simple to prepare at home with his new cookbook BEIRUT-BORN CHEF Hussien Dekmak started his cooking career in central London at Al Hamra in Shepherd Market. Now, 10 years after he opened his [...]
It’s delicious, colourful and healthy – no wonder Lebanese cuisine is becoming increasingly popular. Now a top chef reveals how it is also simple to prepare at home with his new cookbook
BEIRUT-BORN CHEF Hussien Dekmak started his cooking career in central London at Al Hamra in Shepherd Market. Now, 10 years after he opened his own restaurant Le Mignon in Camden, he has just written a deliciously inviting cookbook with traditional recipes presented in a fuss-free manner. It’s enough to make you fly to Beirut to tuck in; till then, try out his dishes at home.
Batinjan rahib
Aubergine salad (serves 4)
Some people serve this salad hot, but I think the charred aubergines taste better once cooled.
INGREDIENTS
2 medium aubergines
2 medium tomatoes, finely chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped onion
1 tablespoon chopped flat parsley
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tablespoon finely chopped walnuts
1 tablespoon lemon juice
½ tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon pomegranate seeds
(optional)
salt
METHOD: Char the aubergines directly over a gas flame until the flesh is tender. Peel the skins under a cool tap and discard. Allow the aubergines to cool to room temperature, then finely chop them.
Put the tomatoes, onion and parsley in a bowl and combine with the aubergines, garlic, walnuts, lemon juice, olive oil and salt to taste. Mix all the ingredients and top with pomegranate seeds, if using. Serve immediately.
Starters
Moutabal
Smoky aubergine dip
(serves 4)
Also known as baba ghanoush in Syria and Egypt. Charring the aubergines on a gas flame or charcoal grill gives the dip a distinctive smoky flavour. Be careful not to overdo the tahini; you only need a little to bring out the flavour of the aubergines.
INGREDIENTS
2 large aubergines
50g tahini paste (available
from large supermarkets)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
olive oil, to drizzle
1 tablespoon pomegranate
seeds (optional)
salt
METHOD: Char the aubergines directly over a gas flame or over charcoal, using tongs, until the flesh is tender. Peel under a cold tap and discard the skins. Allow the aubergines to cool to room temperature.
Finely chop the aubergines and place in a bowl. Add the tahini, lemon juice and salt to taste, and mix well.
Drizzle a little olive oil on top and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds, if using.
Maincourses
Dajaj mahshi bil roz
Stuffed chicken with rice (serves 6)
INGREDIENTS
1 chicken (about 1.5kg), cleaned
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
100g minced lamb
50g pine nuts
200g American long-grain rice
1 tablespoon flaked almonds, toasted salt and black pepper
METHOD: Preheat the oven to 240°C/475°F/gas mark 9. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Place on a baking tray and pour over the vegetable oil and 100ml of water. Cover the tray with kitchen foil and cook in the oven for 30 minutes. Turn the oven down to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6 and cook the chicken for a further 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a pan, add the onion and stir until softened. Add the lamb, pine nuts, salt and pepper, and stir until the meat is tender.
Add the rice and stir. Pour in 300ml of water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and cook for 15 minutes or until the rice is tender. Transfer the rice mixture to
a serving platter.
When the chicken is cooked, cut into large pieces and arrange on top of the rice. Sprinkle with the almonds. Serve with laban (yogurt) and salads.
Frikkeh bil lahma
Roasted green wheat with lamb (serves 4)
Frikkeh is roasted green wheat and it is a speciality of Lebanon. It has a delicious taste. You can do this dish with chicken instead of lamb if you prefer.
INGREDIENTS
250g roasted green wheat
300g lamb shoulder, cut into large pieces
2 tablespoons ghee (clarified butter)
1 medium onion, chopped
200g nuts (such as pine nuts,cashews and blanched almonds), toasted until golden
salt
METHOD: Soak the wheat in a bowl of cold water for 30 minutes. Skim off the dust that floats to the top and rinse in several changes of fresh water. Drain and set aside.
Meanwhile, bring a pan of water to the boil, add the lamb and cook until tender – this will take about 25 minutes. Drain, reserving the cooking water.
Heat the ghee in a separate pan, add the onion and cook until softened. Add the drained wheat and some salt and cook for five minutes, stirring.
Pour about 400ml of the reserved cooking water into the pan, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and cook gently for 45 minutes until the wheat is tender but still has a bit of bite.
Divide the wheat between serving plates. Arrange the cooked meat on top and scatter with the toasted nuts.
Serve with laban (yogurt) or salad.
Samak harra
Lebanese chilli fish (serves 6)
You can use other fish besides red snapper if you prefer, such as salmon or sea bass. Use a cooking mat on top of the baking tray if possible – this stops the fish from sticking.
INGREDIENTS
1.5kg whole red snapper, gutted and cleaned handful of coriander, finely chopped, plus extra for garnish
6 garlic cloves, crushed
2 medium carrots, grated
1 tablespoon finely chopped green chilli
1 tablespoon olive oil
cumin
salt
METHOD: Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Cut slits into the fish, then rub the fish inside and out with salt and cumin.
Combine the coriander, garlic, carrot and green chilli in a bowl. Stuff this mixture into the cavity of the fish, then rub the whole fish with olive oil.
Combine the coriander, garlic, carrot and green chilli in a bowl. Stuff this mixture into the cavity of the fish, then rub the whole fish with olive oil.
Serve hot with tarator (tahini sauce) and coriander to garnish.
Dessert
Moghli
Ground rice pudding (serves 8)
Moghli is traditionally presented to women after giving birth. A tray of individual puddings are handed round and the new mother chooses first!
INGREDIENTS
300g ground rice
500g caster sugar
1½ tablespoons ground cinnamon
3 tablespoons ground caraway seeds to garnish
50g pine nuts, soaked overnight in water
50g almonds, soaked overnight in water
50g pistachios, soaked overnight in water
50g desiccated coconut
METHOD: Place the ground rice, sugar, spices and 1.5 litres of water in a pan. Mix well and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and cook for about 15–20 minutes or until thickened, stirring all the time.
Pour into serving bowls and allow to cool. Meanwhile, drain the nuts and peel the almonds and pistachios.
Garnish the puddings with the pine nuts, almonds, pistachios and coconut and serve.
The Lebanese Cookbook by Hussien
Dekmak (Kyle Cathie, £14.99) with photography by Martin Brigdale is out now
