Fairytale Fairs
Words | Virginia Blackburn Germany’s centuries-old Christmas markets are straight out of a story book. Voyager flies to Cologne and Hanover to see two of the oldest CHRISTMAS IS WHEN Germany loves to sparkle. After all, it’s the country that introduced many of the seasonal customs the rest of the world has since adopted; and, [...]
Words | Virginia Blackburn
Germany’s centuries-old Christmas markets are straight out of a story book. Voyager flies to Cologne and Hanover
to see two of the oldest
alt="Cologne hosts no less than six Christmas markets under the shadow of its cathedral">
CHRISTMAS IS WHEN Germany loves to sparkle. After all, it’s the country that introduced many of the seasonal customs
the rest of the world has since adopted; and, along with Austria, it was the first country to hold a Christkindlmark, or Christmas market,
back in the late 13th century. The Dresden Christmas market, which attracts up to two million visitors a year, is
often said to be the oldest Christmas market – in fact, first held in 1434, it is a relative newcomer on the scene.
These days, however, German Christmas markets combine modernity with tradition and commerce with
celebration. Typically held in and around the town square, the vast majority of the colourfully decorated 2,500
markets held throughout the country contain a Nativity scene, zwetschgamånnla (figures made out of decorated
dried plums) and nussknacker (carved Nutcrackers.) They start before the first weekend in Advent, usually late
November, and go on until Christmas Eve, although some carry on longer still, lasting up to Epiphany on 6 January.
Every market has the bare essentials: toys, sweets, baking tins, biscuits and candles, to name but a few. But
what makes them special are that the stalls are usually wooden and beautifully painted, and the handcrafted
Christmas ornaments are not so much tree decorations as mini works of art. And of course, hundreds of little lights
are everywhere.
alt="The festive time is all about good food and drink. You’ll find no shortage of mulled wine at Germany’s Christmas
markets, known as glühwein, or ‘glowing wine’">
One of the most famous of the modern day markets is in Cologne; strictly speaking, it’s not one but six Christmas
markets that the city boasts. Four of them are the traditional Christkindlmarkt and the other two the Medieval
Christmas Market and the Floating Christmas Market. The mood is that of carnival, the chill weather set against a
warm atmosphere dotted with rosy cheeks, frosted breath and the wafting scents of food and drink on offer.
The largest of the four traditional markets, which attract up to two million visitors every year, is held at Cologne
Cathedral. There are up to 160 stalls, in the form of little wooden pavilions, sheltering under what is said to be the
biggest Christmas tree in the Rhinelands. This market specialises in sweet delicacies, while glühwein is served in
special Christmas mugs.
alt="Hanover’s old quarter is taken over by 150 stalls">
The best market for children is that held at the Alter Markt (old market). This is based in the Altstadt (old town)
and as the name implies, is set against the backdrop of typically German gabled houses surrounding the Old Town
Hall. Younger members of the family can enjoy Santa’s grotto, a roundabout and puppet theatre, while the stalls
specialise in Christmas toys.
The oldest market, ironically, is in the Neumarkt, the city’s shopping centre. It specialises in fine porcelain:
special plates decorated with traditional scenes of German Christmas markets. Meanwhile, the market at the
Rudolfplatz is set against the medieval Hahnentorburg and decorated with huge figures taken out of fairytales.
alt="wooden toys like this traditional nutcracker">
The two more unusual markets, both of which start four days later than the others, on 28 November, are the
Medieval Christmas Market outside the Chocolate Museum and the Floating Christmas Market, which is held
onboard MS Wappen von Köln in the old quarter. The first is decorated to look like a scene from the Middle Ages,
with clowns and musicians in abundance, stalls set against medieval scenery and the stallholders telling stories in a
medieval dialect. Visitors to the ship, meanwhile, have more than 40 stalls to choose from, along with a spectacular
view of the Old Town and the cathedral.
Hanover is also worth a seasonal visit. The Hanover Christmas market, which runs from 27 November to 22 December, is based in the old quarter of the town,
around the Market Church and on the Ballhofplatz. There are 150 different stalls, specialising in Christmas tree decorations, wooden toys and crafts, while a historic
Christmas village recreates a medieval scene. There is also a storyteller and a puppeteer to entertain the children: adults, meanwhile, engage in the pleasures
of glühwein and gossip. A unique feature is the Finnish Christmas market, selling – you guessed it – Finnish specialities and also decorated as a medieval scene.
What to eat
German Christmas markets are as much about eating as they are about buying presents, so check out local specialities. Given the cold weather, popular drinks are
glühwein, a kind of mulled wine, sometimes served with a shot of brandy, or eierpunsch, an alcoholic punch made with eggs.
There will usually be gebrannte mandeln, or toasted, candied almonds, alongside Christstollen, a sweet, eggy
bread with candied fruit and topped with icing sugar. It is best eaten slathered with butter. As you would expect,
bratwurst is everywhere.
Bakers each make a minute and intricate lebkuchenhaus, modelled on a real life building, a tradition that has been
going on since the early 18th century.
A Cologne Christmas in London
If you want to have a taster experience before flying out to Germany, check out the free month-long
Cologne Christmas Market at central London’s Southbank Centre where you can enjoy a Kölsch
beer, glass of glühwein or bite of bratwurst. Aiming to recreate as many of the traditional aspects as possible,
there will be a carousel in the centre of the market, music, stalls and crafts.
Southbank Centre, London SE1; 21 November – 23 December, 10am-10pm; www.southbanklondon.com
