Piste is East
Words | Minty Clinch The snowline doesn’t stop where the Alps end. Our writers invite you to discover the fine runs, affordable ski passes and après hospitality of Georgia, Iran and Lebanon Georgia BACK IN 1998, Tbilisi felt like a city under siege, its narrow streets crumbling in the aftermath of the Soviet era. Yet Georgians remained generous [...]
Words | Minty Clinch
The snowline doesn’t stop where the Alps end. Our writers invite you to discover the fine runs, affordable ski passes and après hospitality of Georgia, Iran and Lebanon
Georgia
alt="Georgia on your mind? This cool skiing destination is perfect for those bored with the same old slopes">
BACK IN 1998, Tbilisi felt like a city under siege, its narrow streets crumbling in the aftermath of the Soviet era. Yet Georgians remained generous far beyond their means.
Six dishes on a dinner table? What’s wrong with a dozen? A bottle of vodka? Better make that two.
Despite this summer’s troubles, Tblisi is now a thoroughly contemporary capital, and at five hours non-stop from Heathrow, is a viable destination for a
long weekend. The Caucasus mountains, row upon row of remote peaks and valleys along the Russian border to the north, are fast emerging as an exciting alternative to the
Alps for action spots. After a two-and-a-half-hour drive in a March blizzard, I arrived to find Gudauri, Georgia’s only international ski resort, blanketed in snow. Tomorrow
would be a magical day.
alt="A former Russian helicopter gunship now takes tourists to the heart of the skiing action">
Gudauri took its place on the world ski map in 1988 when an Austrian development company built the Sport Hotel, an architecturally uninspired but comfortable fourstar with
indoor tennis courts, a swimming pool, spa and a night club. A year later, Swiss mountain guide Roland Beeler set up his Alpin Travel heli-skiing operation, using the hotel
as a base for all-inclusive packages.
The next day, the clouds cleared to reveal a white Mi-8, once a Russian helicopter gunship, now a tireless workhorse for pleasure-seeking skiers, sitting 50m from the hotel
door. We climbed in, 24 at a time, and sat in two rows facing each other across a jumble of equipment. With awesome power, the machine lifted off and touched down within
what seemed like moments among the high peaks. Eagerly we got into groups, impatient to rip up the powder. As Beeler has 250 permitted landing zones, there’s no
danger of going short, but at this point adrenaline rules.
alt="a place with real socks appeal">
Soon we were off, zigzagging down the pristine slopes behind our guides, the sun glinting on the crystals as the snow crested into waves around our thighs. At the bottom,
we climbed back in, zoomed up and did it again – and again and again until lunch beckoned. In Canadian heli circles, the lunch is a teetotal brief break: 15 minutes standing
in the snow snacking on soup and sandwiches. In Gudauri, guests fly back to the Sport hotel and the extensive buffet and a glass of wine before returning to the hill for the
afternoon.
Gudauri also has five modern chairlifts covering the mountain above the hotel, with the first ticket station a 10-second ski from the Sport’s locker room. They serve
a network of groomed pistes suited mostly to beginners and intermediates though it’s wise to be aware of crazy Georgians who put in as few turns as possible in the race for
the base. Two mountain restaurants at the mid station compete for custom and decibel domination, often in competition with the piste-side sound system.
For the energetic, the area is perfect for touring, ascending on skis with skins attached to the base to prevent backsliding, then descending through untracked
snow. If you can climb for four hours, try the ascent to the Lomisi church across the valley. Otherwise the new chairlift on Mount Sadzele accesses a range of great powder
runs off the ridge above Gudauri to the remote villages in the valley beyond with the minimum of walking.
alt="Minty Clinch, is a seasoned adventure sport and skiing writer who first skied in Georgia a decade ago">
Over the past decade, the resort has acquired a couple of new family-run hotels, notably the Georgian-Alpine Gudauri Hut, and a few blocks of apartments owned by
weekenders from Tbilisi, but there is plenty of scope for future expansion. The restaurant scene has improved, withtwo very Georgian inns serving indigenous delicacies such
as khachapuri, a delectable cheese pastry, and khinkali, little dumplings stuffed with minced pork. With lashings of Kasbegi beer, named for the peak you can see from the
top of the lift system, this feast cost a modest £20 for four.
All too soon, it was time to return to Tbilisi for a night on the town before flying home. The old city centre has been reborn as a pedestrian zone, its narrow streets lined with
smart bars and restaurants, and boutique hotels – one is actually called Boutique Hotel – cling to the edge of the dramatic cliff on the opposite side of the River Kura.
Our voyage of discovery took the form of a stroll among icon-rich churches, mosques and synagogues, some dating from the sixth century, in the heart of the city. When
culture fatigue kicked in, we followed the sulphur smell, as Pushkin once did, to the brick-domed Orbeliani Baths. Behind the elaborate blue-tiled façade are segregated
areas with hot and cold pools, steam rooms and masseurs ready to pummel you back into shape for a small fistful of lari (10 lari is about £3.60).
Suitably relaxed, we hit the city, starting with a feast of Argentine beef in the elegant Carne Buena restaurant. You can choose your cuts – and, with
large portions at mouthwatering prices, it’s clear that Georgian hospitality still rules.
GUDAURI
-
Sport Hotel Club [+995 (0)32 202 900, hotel@gudauri.ge, www.gudauri.ge] a well equipped four-star hotel, offering the ultimate
in ski-in, ski-out convenience.
-
Gudauri Hut [+ 995 (0)99 398 123/272 291, gudaurihut@gmail.com, www.gudaurihut.com) a family-run alternative built
in traditional wood and stone with a lively restaurant and bar. Lift pass: 25 lari (about £8) per day.
-
Alpin Travel [+41 (0)81 720 2121, www.alpintravel.ch] heli packages, from £2,945 (seven nights full board at Sport Hotel,
20,000 vertical metres heli skiing/boarding, transfers from Tblisi airport). Flights not included.
TBILISI
-
Villa Mtiebi [10 Chakhrukhadze Street, +995 (0)32 920 340/341/342, Tbilisi@hotelmtiebi.ge,
www.hotelmtiebi.ge]: a small charming business hotel built around an Arab-style courtyard in the centre of the old town. -
Boutique Hotel [9 Mtekhi Rise, +995 (0)32 266 999, info.boutique-hotel@dsl.ge,
www.boutique-hotel.dsl.ge] a quirky hotel built into
the cliff overlooking the river with terrace and snooker room. -
Minty travelled with Wild Frontiers [+44 (0)20 7736 3968, www.wildfrontiers.co.uk] which arranges winter sports weekends inGeorgia, January-April, 2009, Thursday-Monday from £695, and a Wild Skiing adventure trip, 27 February-7 March, 2009 (six nights Gudauri Hut, one night in Tbilisi, bmi
flights and transfers) £1,350.
Kamin Mohammadi profiles the main ski resorts in easy reach of Tehran
Iran
Dizin
Where
Tehran nestles beside the Alborz mountain range. Every day between December and April, people load cars with skis and snowboards and make for the peaks. There are 16
pistes in the range, and two major resorts: Dizin and Shemshak. Dizin, which lies directly north of the capital and 90 minutes’ drive from there, is the largest in the Middle
East.
Why
Fans swear by the unique quality of Dizin’s snow. The flakes are, they claim, more powdery here, and, with no trees between the slopes, there are great off-piste
opportunities. That’s not to say Dizin lacks formal runs.
alt="Fine-quality snow is found on mountains just 90 minutes’ drive from Tehran">
The resort has a good range of facilities, with about 10 lifts and a range of green, blue, black diamond and double black diamond slopes. Some of the amenities date from
the pre-revolutionary era and are showing their age. Yet the combination of fluffy snow and some of the cheapest lift passes makes the skiing exhilarating as well as good
value.
Who
This place draws a crowd of chic, friendly devotees. If you’re skiing here for a few days, you’ll still find it easy to make friends. In fact, don’t be surprised if you’re invited to
one of the wild private parties that make up the après-ski here. Because this really is where people go to ski, snowboard
and to party.
Shemshak
Where
At 57 kilometres north-east of Tehran by road, Shemshak is less than two hours away, though a four-by-four or chains are needed for the last part of the journey.
Why
alt="so are markets and stores for the tourists">
Shemshak is for those who see skiing as a serious sport rather than a fun pastime. There are double black and triple black diamond runs, challenging mogul fields and very
steep slopes, suited to real pros. It has two chair lift stations and three J-Bar stations.
Who
alt="Kamin Mohammadi, is a writer and broadcaster who grew up in the shadow of the Alborz mountains.">
This is the place to meet the best skiers and snowboarders in Iran – people who are serious about both their skiing and their style. Expect to see well-dressed Tehranis
zooming down the slopes. There is even night skiing under floodlights until midnight, for true devotees.
DIZIN
-
Stay at
It’s easier to book a tour, but you could try booking directly through the three-star Dizin Hotel [+98 (0)261 560 7814]. This is the better of the resort’s
two hotels, and is charmingly retro. Rooms cost about $50-100 (£28-56) per night. -
Eat at
Dizin’s five restaurants all offer kebabs, sweet tea and hearty après fare. -
Hire from
There are good hire shops and schools in Dizin. Prices vary hugely, as Iranian businesses charge foreigners in US dollars and exchange rates change
daily. Don’t expect to pay too much, and be prepared to haggle.
SHEMSHAK
-
Stay at
The Alpine-style Hotel Shemshak [+98 (0)21 651 986] is the best hotel, with good food and service. -
Eat at
Again, there are a handful of cafes, serving kebabs, Red Bull and other tasty ski fuel. -
Hire from
There are good hire shops and schools here, too. The same advice applies. Bring dollars and be prepared to haggle.
Lebanon runs delight skiing adventurers – and après-ski bunnies, says Hugh Macleod
Lebanon
Faraya-Mzaar
Where
alt="There is more to Lebanon than desert sand">
An hour’s drive north-east of Beirut into the heart of Mount Lebanon, Faraya-Mzaar is the place for skiing in Lebanon. With 18 lifts serving 42 runs set over three domains,
there’s enough downhill to keep the most demanding skier entertained. And with just 80km of the mountain prepared and marked, Faraya is a winter wonderland of
off-pisting. Storms blowing in from the Mediterranean often dump metres of fresh snow several times a season, serving up world-class powder that snowboarders will relish.
Why
Effortless hospitality, blissfully uncrowded slopes and piles of silky powder make Faraya everything skiing in Europe is often not. Where else could skiers on a chairlift
surrounded by glistening ice gaze across a country to see the turquoise water of the Mediterranean shimmering below? With barely a fraction of the mountain prepared into
runs, accessing new off-piste is easy.
Who
Faraya is the place for the young and fashionable to be seen, many of whom don’t actually ski but prefer to sun themselves in cafes and people watch.
The Cedars
Where
Further north, above the soaring limestone cliffs of the Qadisha Valley, The Cedars resort takes its name from the ancient evergreen trees that have grown there since
Biblical times. The drive from Beirut takes two and a half to three hours depending on how much time you allow to marvel at the scenery.
Why
The Cedars is a quiet natural haven unlike most purpose-built resorts. With slopes set around a mighty bowl that form the highest peaks in the country, it’s an ideal escape
for those wishing to take things easy, or for beginners seeking some solitude. Three new chairlifts have replaced the dreaded T-bars, with button lifts completing access to
the half dozen slopes. A gondola to open up a new flank of the mountain is promised for the 2009 season and, as with Faraya, there’s acres of untapped off-piste to be had.
Though the skiing is more limited than Faraya, the area is one of outstanding natural beauty and visits to the Cedars forest, the Gibran Khalil museum and walks in the
Qadisha valley are a must.
Who
alt="Hugh Macleod, has skied and snowboarded for nearly 20 years, in most major European resorts.">
The Cedars’ crowd is very different from Faraya’s. Being far from Beirut means the resort attracts families who stay several nights, rather than day-tripping city crowds.
Nature lovers and veteran skiers who prefer a few perfect runs to a day of pounding the slopes will find a soulful experience here.
FARAYA-MZAAR
- Stay at
Intercontinental: five-star luxury amid the Mount Lebanon peaks. Merab Hotel: three-star, clean and comfortable, mid-price. San José chalets are selfcatering,
for the independently spirited. - Eat at
Le Montagnou [+961 9 341 441; http//montagnou.com]: expensive fondues, but great atmosphere. - Hire from
Prices are a little cheaper down in Faraya village. Try Eli at Skiline, on left of the village. Expect to pay around $15 (£8.50) for skis, poles and boots. Lift
passes sold at the foot of slopes: unless staying in the Refuge area, buy a day ticket for Jonction and Wardeh for $25 (£14) weekdays, $35 (£20) weekends.
THE CEDARS
- Stay at
Auberge des Cèdres [+961 4 713 467] a rustic and homely lodge great for families or couples. - Eat at
Auberge again, Le Chaudron des Cèdres [+961 3 213 102], or walk into the village. - Hire from
Shops around the car park below the first lift are easiest. Prices are the same as Faraya. Lift passes are $23 (£13) for weekdays, $30 (£70) at weekends.
