Like an Egyptian
Words | Michael Keating This month, bmi celebrates the first anniversary of its daily flights between London Heathrow and Cairo. Just over four and a half hours away, a luxury weekend in this colourful city couldn’t be more of an exotic culture shock Cairo virgins often seem intimidated by this bustling metropolis, home to [...]
Words | Michael Keating
This month, bmi celebrates the first anniversary of its daily flights between London Heathrow and Cairo. Just over four and a half hours away, a luxury weekend in this colourful city couldn’t be more of an exotic culture shock
Cairo virgins often seem intimidated by this bustling metropolis, home to 18 million people. But plan the right way, and with some insider tips,
and you can navigate the city like a local. There’s not only culture by the bucket-load, but great back-street bars, high-end spas, romantic Nile cruises, jazz clubs and late night bazaars. In just a few intoxicating days, you can enjoy both the high-end headiness and low-end thrills.
SEE
For a glimpse of the local art scene wander round the galleries in the smart residential area Zamalek (see list on page 63) then jump into a cab to the Gayer-Anderson
House at the rear of the Ibn Tulun Mosque. Major Gayer – Anderson was a British physician and army officer who fell in love with Egyptian culture and his home is now famed as one of the best preserved examples of 17th-century domestic architecture. It houses a vast collection of ancient artefacts, including furniture and carpets. There’s even a well, believed to possess miraculous qualities. If you gaze into the water, you are supposed to see the face of your sweetheart rather than your own reflection.
Of course, the pyramids are a must, but as they close at 5pm, a very civilised way to view them at sunset is from the gardens of the Mena House hotel, with gin and tonic and stuffed vine leaf in hand. It is where Winston Churchill had his favourite suite; and without question it has the best vantage point of all Cairo. A highlight is likely to be a romantic felucca ride along the Nile. You can rent one of these traditional sailing boats from a number of spots for as little as around £10 (£100 Egyptian) per hour; or ask your hotel concierge to organise it. Our crew expertly handled the sails as the sun dipped below the skyline. With
the relative silence and warms winds on your face, Cairo seems like a very different and calmer place from the Nile.
TAKE HOME
The Khan el-Khalili souk in the Al Hussein area is the place for late night haggling. Although there are some genuine antique shops in the side streets, there isn’t that much to buy, unless you have a penchant for Sphinx sculptures. That said, silver, jewellery, pottery and slippers make good gifts. There’s a fantastic 200-year-old coffee shop called Fishawi’s which is a great spot at about 1am.
To remind you of this exotic land as you sink into your own bed back home, buy some sumptuous Egyptian cotton sheets. Visit Heba Linens which has four outlets:
Intercontinental Hotel [+20 (0)2 795 7171], First Mall [+20 (0)2 568 5960), Arcadia [+20 (0)2 574 4260] or City Stars [+20 (0)2 480 2262]. They won’t bargain, but about £90 (£875 Egyptian) will get you a full set of finest-quality sheets, pillow cases and duvet cover.
DINING
Naguib Mahfouz [5 Sekket El Badistan, Khan El Khalili; [+20 (0)2 590 3788] is operated by the Oberoi chain and tucked away down a side alley in the souk. There is live music in the front room, but the back section is the prettiest, with white washed walls and lots of little romantic alcoves. The walls of La Bodega [157, 26th of July Street; +20 (0)2 735 0543] are strewn with pictures by young artists and it’s often used as a backdrop for fashion shoots. It’s cosy and packed with trendy locals.
Sequoia [3 Abul Feda Street, Zamalek; +20 (0)2 735 0014] is notable for its hip clientele and fabulous Nile location. It serves hot and cold mezze and there is also a
sushi bar. Sangria [Casino El Shagara, Corniche El Nil; +20 (0)2 2579 6511] has become the place to have lunch, dinner or chilled-out night on the town. It’s an Asianthemed restaurant with small terrace for shisha lovers.
Even Cairo has its own Buddha Bar, specialising in Pacific Rim cuisine with exceptional views and a terrace looking out over the Nile, plus it’s open till 3am. Of the hotel restaurants, the Four Seasons has the cream of the crop. The First Residence has Lai Thai and Spice at the Nile Plaza serves up Cairo’s best Cantonese. Although touristy and full of whispering couples, the French Revolving Restaurant on the 40th floor at Grand Hyatt Hotel has truly spectacular views. No matter who you ask in Cairo, everyone seems to recommend Abou El Sid (157, 26th July Street, Zamalek; +20 (0)2 735 9640). It’s all about the atmosphere, which is dark, smoky and sexy. The whole place is a nostalgic ode to Cairo’s pre-revolutionary heyday.
The original, best-loved branch (there are now four) has dining rooms in an art deco apartment building on Zamalek island, with marble tables and gilded Louis Farouk furniture.
LATE NIGHT
Bars tend to be split into three categories, the fancier hotel bars which are invariably pricey, smart locals joints frequented by tourists and expats and the local local bars with only rather macho Egyptian clientele – that is, no women and cheap beer. L’Aubergine [5A Sayyed al-Bakry, Zamalek; + 20 (0)2 735 6550] gets busy from 10pm with a 20-something crowd. The Cairo Jazz Club [197, 26th of July Street, Zamalek; +20 (0)2 3345 9939] also offers up blues and rock, and Wednesday is 70s disco night. Akin to Crystal in London and Beirut, Club 35 (Four Seasons Hotel at the First Residence, 35 Giza Street; +20 (0)2 2573
8500] is where Cairo’s jet-set go. They have a strict no jeans policy and it’s best to have your concierge reserve a table as it is technically members only. If you fancy a trawl of the smarter hotels bars try Rithmo [Semiramis InterContinental, Corniche El Nil; +20 (0)2 2577 7444], Rooftop Bar (Nile Hilton, Corniche El Nil; +20 (0)2 2578 0444], the 30-storey-high Windows on the World (Ramses Hilton, Corniche El Nil; +20 (0)2 2577 7444] and finish up at Latex (back at the Nile Hilton), which is open till 5am.
SLEEP
The Four Seasons offers the most sumptuous accommodation. Unusually, in Cairo there are two properties, the First Residence [35 Giza Street, Giza; +20
(0)2 3573 1212] and the newer Nile Plaza [1089 Corniche El Nil; +20 (0)2 2791 7000]. Both offer the luxury and service you’d expect (where everyone knows your name), but the First Residence is the older, more understated grande dame, with classical furnishings, plumped cushions and lots of gilt. The Nile Plaza is younger, more contemporary, see and be seen; it also has a great gym and spa. Go for the 80-minute Cleopatra’s Bath, which starts with an indulgent 20-minute soak in a warm bath of milk, honey and rose petals, followed by a 60-minute massage. They also have double treatment rooms for lovebirds. One thing both hotels arrange is a meet and greet at the airport, which speeds up the arrival and visa process.
For pure nostalgia and views of the pyramids, Oberoi’s Mena House [Pyramids Road, Giza; +20 (0)2 3377 3222] is the place. It’s full of antiques, lovely chandeliers and old rugs, although it’s showing signs of age. That said, it doesn’t put off Omar Sharif, who won’t stay anywhere else.
Sound and Light Show, from £15 per traveller. Join this escorted visit to see the 45-minute sound and light show against the spectacular backdrop of the Pyramids and the Sphinx. The show tells the story of the history of Ancient Egypt.
Full-day excursion to Memphis, Sakkara, the Citadel, and Old Cairo, from £32.80 per adult. This comprehensive guided tour of the ancient wonders of Cairo
will take you to the sites of Memphis, once the capital of Upper and Lower Egypt, and the Pyramid of King Zoser at Sakkara, which was the first pyramid built in Ancient Egypt. The tour also takes in Old Cairo and the Citadel of Cairo, a fortress that dominates the city’s skyline and remains a formidable monument to medieval warfare.
ART GALLERIES
Arts Palace
Gezirah Exhibition Ground.
Tel: + 20 (0)2 737 3298
Local and international works.
Open 10am-2pm, 5pm-9pm
Atelier du Claire
2 Karim El-Dawla Street,
Downtown.
Tel: + 20 (0)2 574 6730
Local and international works.
Open 10am-1pm, 5pm-
11pm. Closed Fridays
Safar Khan Art Gallery
6 Brazil Street, Zamalek.
Tel: + 20 (0)2 735 3314
Egyptian artists. Open
9:30am-1:30pm, 4:30pm-8:30pm. Closed Sun.
Sheba Gallery
6 Sri Lanka Street, Zamalek.
Tel: + 20 (0)2 735 9192
Exhibits by artists from Egypt and abroad.
Open 10am-8pm. Closed Sundays.
World of Art
6 Rd 77c, Golf Area, Maadi.
Tel: +20 (0)2 359 4362
Reproductions and original exhibitions.
Open 10am-9pm.
