Email from Almaty
Luke O’Callaghan works as a coach for the Kazakhstan Rugby Union. He and his Kazakh wife divide their time between Almaty and Luke’s home city of Dublin IN THE EIGHT YEARS that I’ve been living in Almaty, the city has changed drastically. Gradually, modern skyscrapers are rising up among the old Soviet blocks and huge [...]
Luke O’Callaghan works as a coach for the Kazakhstan Rugby Union. He and his
Kazakh wife divide their time between Almaty and Luke’s home city of Dublin
IN THE EIGHT YEARS that I’ve been living in Almaty, the city
has changed drastically. Gradually, modern skyscrapers are
rising up among the old Soviet blocks and huge new roads
connect the cityscape. Even for a local, Almaty can feel
overwhelming at times: the number of cars, the crazy drivers
and the jams they create, slowing what should be short road
journeys. When the city makes me feel stressed I head to Kok
Tobe – the ‘blue mountain’ on Almaty’s south eastern side.
Other people come to Kok Tobe for panoramic views of the
city, the peace and quiet, the fresh air above the smog and the
good food in a replica yurt at the summit – but my favourite
part is getting there, in the cable car. Buy tickets for a pittance
from the cashier at the junction of Abai and Dostyk streets,
behind the Arman cinema, and soon you’re ascending.
There is something transcendental about the car’s slow
climb, while you gaze at the houses and gardens below. You can
see families having barbecues, kids in the wealthier homes
playing in private swimming pools, and pet dogs barking at the
moving shadow that the cable car casts on the ground.
The cable car is an old Soviet relic and its retro-appeal is
charming, but it does give me chills whenever it jerks to a stop
for a moment, hanging over the void. I imagine falling into
someone’s garden or pool, but, of course, it never happens.
When you arrive at Kok Tobe, it’s worth taking a walk
through the trees to the Alma-Ata Tower, the city television
tower, built 1975-83 and located on the western slope of the
hill. While you can’t go up the tower itself, from here you still
have a good vantage point to see the city spread out below.
In this spot there’s also the chance for a photo opportunity
with the passing ponies and the rural scenery of Kazakhstan
behind you.
After getting fresh air and a fresh perspective, I head back
down to the town and snap out of my trance in one of many
cafes in the area surrounding Kok Tobe. Before the corporate
skyscrapers, The Hotel Kazakhstan (52 Dostyk Avenue, +7 3
272 91 91 01; www.ichotelsgroup.com) was Almaty’s tallest
building and was once its crowning glory – almost literally, with
its deliberately crown-like rooftop. Now its grandeur has faded,
but in the busy lobby you can catch up with friends, enjoy
some tea or take advantage of the free Wi-Fi, which works at a
good speed.
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Tobe"align="left"src="http://www.bmivoyager.com/images/2008/sept/voyager_sept061.jpg">
Just two blocks away, down Dostyk, is the Segafredo cafe. If
it’s authentic Italian coffee that you crave, you can’t go wrong
here. It’s one of my first stops whenever I have jetlag. The sleek,
contemporary interior is indicative of the fast, efficient service
of the baristas (and it’s even next door to a 24-hour dentist’s,
so you can indulge your sweet tooth in safety).
One more block away on Shevchenko and Dostyk is Biscuit,
a coffee shop that also offers Wi-fiand has late opening hours
that mean, like Segafredo, it’s a social hub for Almaty’s pretty
20-somethings. Choose either a shot of espresso to snap you
back into reality or green tea to continue the daydream.
