News journalist Nina Lamparski moved to Brussels six years ago. Here she tells voyager readers why ‘Capital of Dull’ headlines about the city are wrong

THERE ARE 1,400 PEOPLE right now I’d like to give my phone number to. Normally I’m not the sort to just hand out personal details, but I’d make an exception in this case in the name of public service. Along with my contact details, I’d say: “Next time you’re in town, call me. Seriously. Get in touch so I can prove to you just how wrong you were about this place.”

You see, according to a recent survey by travel information website TripAdvisor, the aforementioned folk voted Brussels the most boring city in Europe, beating Zurich and Warsaw. The story was rapidly picked up by international news wires and spread around the planet. Sipping a Stella Artois (with no sense of irony), globetrotters suddenly pointed their pralinestained fingers at the Belgian capital, accusing it of being little more than a bureaucratic bastion and chocolate factory.

But to crown the birthplace of Art Nouveau, Audrey Hepburn and 1,001 beer brands ‘Capital of Dull’ is grossly unfair. Admittedly, the Flemish-French government, with its penchant for internal strife, confuses the living daylights out of locals. And yes, you will run into a large number of stiffsuited politicians and brash lobbyists.

But let me tell you what else you’ll get. Architecture whose aching beauty inspired the art of the great Austrian painter Gustav Klimt, and which is represented by the Grand’Place, one of Unesco’s World Heritage Sites. Even after living here for six years, I never tire of strolling across here to marvel at the late 17th century public and private buildings. Or of getting lost in charming labyrinths of cobble stone alleys and ancient archways. I still love the Montmartre-like flair of the food markets, like the one at Place du Châtelain on Wednesdays, the banter with cheese and wine vendors, and having breakfast in the sun on cute café terraces.

In fact, when it comes to the outdoors, you can’t beat summer in Brussels. From jazz and multicultural festivals to live DJ acts and massive street parties, life’s good during the hot months. Brosella Folk & Jazz is an unmissable free festival taking place in the open-air Green Theatre, near the Atomium monument on 12 and 13 July (www.brosella.be). Or if electro music is more your style, a Gazon Party – DJ Darko event is happening on the evening of 19 July at the foot of the Atomium, as part of the 50 years of Expo 58 celebrations. Contrary to popular belief, office and European Union buildings only make up a tiny part of the urban landscape. That’s because nearly a fifth of the city is parkland and forest. And you’ll find the Forêt de Soignes on the outskirts, where cycle paths, bridleways and walking paths wind through beech forests.

Speaking of size, there aren’t too many big cities left where you can rent a 100-square metre apartment, with ornate high ceilings, wooden floors and a balcony, right in the bustling centre of town, and still have money in the bank.

As for nightlife, when was the last time you sipped martini in a 1930s’ bar, which counted Nat King Cole, Jimmy Smith and Jacques Brel among its regular performers? I’m talking about L’Archiduc [6 Antoine Dansaert, Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 0652; www.archiduc.net] located on a street that’s also home to several of Belgium’s best stores, like Kartell for modern furniture [+32 (0)2 514 7945] and Stijl [+32 (0)2 512 0313] for fashion by the like of Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester. Check out too the vibrant neighbourhood of Halles St Géry, which is lined with funky bars.

Europe’s most boring city? Europe’s best-kept secret would be nearer the mark.