Email from… Brussels
News journalist Nina Lamparski moved to Brussels six years ago. Here she tells voyager readers why ‘Capital of Dull’ headlines about the city are wrong THERE ARE 1,400 PEOPLE right now I’d like to give my phone number to. Normally I’m not the sort to just hand out personal details, but I’d make an exception in this case in [...]
News journalist Nina Lamparski moved to Brussels six years ago. Here she tells voyager readers why ‘Capital of
Dull’ headlines about the city are wrong
THERE ARE 1,400 PEOPLE right now I’d like to give my
phone number to. Normally I’m not the sort to just hand out
personal details, but I’d make an exception in this case in the
name of public service. Along with my contact details, I’d say:
“Next time you’re in town, call me. Seriously. Get in touch so
I can prove to you just how wrong you were about this place.”
You see, according to a recent survey by travel information
website TripAdvisor, the aforementioned folk voted Brussels
the most boring city in Europe, beating Zurich and Warsaw.
The story was rapidly picked up by international news wires
and spread around the planet. Sipping a Stella Artois (with no
sense of irony), globetrotters suddenly pointed their pralinestained
fingers at the Belgian capital, accusing it of being little
more than a bureaucratic bastion and chocolate factory.
But to crown the birthplace of Art Nouveau, Audrey
Hepburn and 1,001 beer brands ‘Capital of Dull’ is grossly
unfair. Admittedly, the Flemish-French government, with its
penchant for internal strife, confuses the living daylights out
of locals. And yes, you will run into a large number of stiffsuited
politicians and brash lobbyists.
But let me tell you what else you’ll get. Architecture whose
aching beauty inspired the art of the great Austrian painter
Gustav Klimt, and which is represented by the Grand’Place,
one of Unesco’s World Heritage Sites. Even after living here
for six years, I never tire of strolling across here to marvel
at the late 17th century public and private buildings. Or of
getting lost in charming labyrinths of cobble stone alleys
and ancient archways. I still love the Montmartre-like flair
of the food markets, like the one at Place du Châtelain on
Wednesdays, the banter with cheese and wine vendors, and
having breakfast in the sun on cute café terraces.
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In fact, when it comes to the outdoors, you can’t beat
summer in Brussels. From jazz and multicultural festivals
to live DJ acts and massive street parties, life’s good during
the hot months. Brosella Folk & Jazz is an unmissable free
festival taking place in the open-air Green Theatre, near the
Atomium monument on 12 and 13 July (www.brosella.be). Or
if electro music is more your style, a Gazon Party – DJ Darko
event is happening on the evening of 19 July at the foot of
the Atomium, as part of the 50 years of Expo 58 celebrations.
Contrary to popular belief, office and European Union buildings
only make up a tiny part of the urban landscape. That’s because
nearly a fifth of the city is parkland and forest. And you’ll find
the Forêt de Soignes on the outskirts, where cycle paths,
bridleways and walking paths wind through beech forests.
Speaking of size, there aren’t too many big cities left where
you can rent a 100-square metre apartment, with ornate high
ceilings, wooden floors and a balcony, right in the bustling
centre of town, and still have money in the bank.
As for nightlife, when was the last time you sipped martini
in a 1930s’ bar, which counted Nat King Cole, Jimmy Smith
and Jacques Brel among its regular performers? I’m talking
about L’Archiduc [6 Antoine Dansaert, Brussels, +32 (0)2
512 0652; www.archiduc.net] located on a street that’s also
home to several of Belgium’s best stores, like Kartell for
modern furniture [+32 (0)2 514 7945] and Stijl [+32 (0)2
512 0313] for fashion by the like of Belgian designer Ann
Demeulemeester. Check out too the vibrant neighbourhood
of Halles St Géry, which is lined with funky bars.
Europe’s most boring city? Europe’s best-kept secret would
be nearer the mark.
