Passport to
Words: Andrew Sanger. Bauhaus buildings, beaches and great food are just some of what’s on offer in Israel’s economic centre, Tel Aviv TOUCHDOWN Tel Aviv is among the most vivacious of the world’s beach cities. Stroll on the long seafront promenade, just minutes from the city centre, with thrilling new architecture, swirling patterns underfoot and [...]
Words: Andrew Sanger.
Bauhaus buildings, beaches and great
food are just some of what’s on offer
in Israel’s economic centre, Tel Aviv
TOUCHDOWN
alt="A jewellery trove in Neve Tzedek">
Tel Aviv is among the most vivacious of the world’s beach
cities. Stroll on the long seafront promenade, just minutes
from the city centre, with thrilling new architecture,
swirling patterns underfoot and a vast expanse of soft sand
alongside. Locals come to swim, sunbathe or shmooze in a
dozen languages, while buskers play not guitars but violins.
SLEEP
The beachside hotels are expensive but luxurious. They
include the 5-star Sheraton (115 Hayarkon St, +972 3 521
6666; www.sheraton.com/telaviv). Head south for lower
prices. Particularly good value is the large, family-friendly
Dan Panorama (10 Kaufmann St, +972 3 519 0190; www.danhotels-israel.com), with
rooms from about £100 per night
including an Israeli breakfast. A block or two inland, an array
of smaller, more affordable hotels includes the delightful,
restored Cinema Hotel (Dizengoff Sq, +972 3 520 7100;
www.cinemahotel.com), which is full of movie memorabilia.
EAT
alt="Habima Theatre">
Tel Aviv is about enjoying food; it has hundreds of good
restaurants. Portions tend to be generous, while the cooking
is a fusion of everything from French, sushi and hearty East
European fare to spicy Middle Eastern flavours. A leading
gourmet choice is Moul Hayam (Tel Aviv Port, +972 3 546
9920). At the beach, try big, popular Yotvata (Herbert Samuel
Blvd, +972 3 510 4667). For succulent roast meats, Shaul’s Inn
(Eliyashiv St, +972 3 517 7619) is one of several authentic,
atmospheric places in the Yemenite quarter. For fish with a
sea view, head to Old Jaffa, packed in the evenings. And be sure
to try Israel’s favourite street snacks – falafel in pitta and shwarma.
THE SIGHTS
1930s’ Bauhaus architecture lines older central streets, some
buildings handsomely restored, especially along Rothschild
Boulevard. Hectic Carmel Market (daily except Saturdays) fills
a network of lanes with fragrant produce. Picturesque Old Jaffa,
in south Tel Aviv, is one of the world’s most ancient ports.
THE MUSEUMS
alt="fishing in the Mediterranean">
Tel Aviv’s immense Eretz Israel Museum (University St,
+972 3 641 5244), explores 3,000 years of history. Nearby,
the Diaspora Museum (University St, +972 3 640 8000) tells
the story of Jewish communities worldwide. Tel Aviv Museum
of Art (Shaul HaMelech Blvd, +972 3 607 7020) showcases
20th-century European art, and hosts jazz and classical concerts.
SHOP
Leading Israeli designers have boutiques on busy Dizengoff and
Sheinkin streets. For beach fashions, visit Gideon Oberson
(36 Gordon St, +972 3 524 3822). Look for interesting jewellery
on Sheinkin and in Neve Tzedek. For imaginative arts and crafts,
stroll the daily market at the top end of Nahalat Binyamim.
NIGHTLIFE
alt="Sabres (cactus fruit) are among the local produce at Carmel Market">
Like New York, they say Tel Aviv “never sleeps”. You’ll find all-night
clubs and a party atmosphere on Allenby St and in the vibrant
Florentin and Neve Tzedek districts, where Abraxas (Lilienblum
St, +972 3 510 4435) and Bugsy (Florentin St, +972 3 681 3138)
are a couple of the more fashionable music bars. But the city’s
entertainment also includes drama, world-class concerts and opera at
venues such as Habima Theatre (Tarsat Blvd, +972 3 629 5555) and
Mann Auditorium (Huberman St, +972 3 528 9163) and modern
dance at Suzanne Dellal Centre (Yechieli St, +972 3 510 5656).
COMING UP
The Israel Festival (www.israel-festival.org.il), 23 May-3 July,
brings international stage performers to arts centres in the city.
