Roll out the barrel

Looking for a good wine? Most people would immediately start thinking about French, Italian, Spanish or New World ­ anything, in fact, other than English. But, surprisingly, the best bottles could be made right under your nose

ENGLISH WINE WAS once regarded as an unfortunate joke but stuffy connoisseurs who still claim it’s hard to swallow are missing out on a taste renaissance. The industry here may be worth a modest £16m per annum but some of the 350 vineyards are now producing top-quality wines that can compete with the best in the world.

According to the UK Vineyards Association, 2006 turned out to be a bumper year, with record amounts of grapes picked from 2,000 acres dedicated to wine production. While a cold spring meant growth was delayed, the scorching hot summer had vineyard owners licking their lips in anticipation. They’re now predicting a fourth consecutive year of exceptional harvests and good wine. Julia Trustram Eve, spokeswoman for the association, says:

"There’s no doubt that English wine is becoming more popular. Vineyard owners are prepared to invest in new vines and have a long-term plan to take on the French at their own game." She admits it is true that in the past poor quality English wine tainted the image of what is produced here. "But now we are winning awards and becoming a professional business."

AND THE RESULTS are being seen in off-licences and restaurants across the country. One merchant in Plymouth sells more home-grown wine than French, while a handful of Gallic restaurants even admit their customers prefer our wine to that produced in France. Chef Alain Lhermitte owns Mon Plaisir, one of the oldest and most respected French restaurants in London. He says his fellow countrymen should take note of the English wine revolution. "There’s no doubt wine produced here is better than ever. It’s true that most French people still think English wine is rubbish but they also think you can’t fi nd a good restaurant in London. These people are living in the past and I personally know how good English wine is now."

As English vineyards expand to meet the demand, they have been helped by the recent run of good vintages, which are a result of good weather in the south of England, where most of the industry is based. What began as a hobby for many aspiring wine producers has suddenly become big business, with vineyard tours and tastings buoying up fi nances during the quiet months. Wine has a long and varied history in England. While experts argue over whether Julius Caesar and the Romans introduced the fi rst vines, most agree that they brought wine with them. By the 11th century, many monasteries were involved in growing grapes and road names such as Vine Street in London provide further clues. According to the Domesday Book, there were 46 vineyards across the south of the country and this had increased to 139 by the time Henry VIII heaved his considerable frame onto the throne. From the 17th century onwards noblemen experimented with wine, but, by the early 20th century, viticulture, such as it was, had withered to a halt. After World War II, pioneers such as Ray Barrington Brock and Edward Hymans began trying new grape varieties to see which grew best in this country. Their work inspired others and by the 1970s vineyards including Three Choirs in Gloucestershire and Denbies in Surrey were setting English corks popping again.

This gradual transformation has not been without its setbacks. Some vineyards established in areas with poor soil produced low-quality wine, which tainted the reputation of others. The atmosphere also turned sour in the 1990s, when budget ferry crossings to France and the opening of the Channel Tunnel meant it was sometimes cheaper to go to a hypermarket in Calais to stock up on duty free than buy home-grown. Ironically, while this scuppered the plans of some English vineyards, others decided to aim for the top end of the market and, in doing so, helped improve the overall image and reputation of our wine.

However, there is still work to do. A key problem most vineyards face is trying to persuade English people to try wine from their own country, as well as the confusion over the labelling of "British" wine as opposed to "English" wine. While you might imagine that it originated in this country, the less palatable truth is that British wine is produced from concentrate shipped in from abroad and bottled in a factory.

Broadly speaking, this type of wine isn’t to be recommended and confuses a buyer looking at a supermarket shelf stacked high with countless options. Look for a bottle that reads "English" wine ­ this can only be made from grapes which were grown here. It is a term that no longer has to mean second best when it comes to taste.

ENGLAND’S FOUR TOP WINE REGIONS

SOUTH EAST

Denbies is the largest privately owned vineyard in northern Europe, with 265 acres of vines. It produces 400,000 bottles a year. "The site was established 20 years ago because it was located on chalky soil, similar to that of the Champagne region in France," spokeswoman Jeanette Simpson explains. The vineyard won the Gold Award for its Greenfi elds Sparkling Cuvée at this year’s International Wine & Spirit Competition. Denbies has become a major tourist attraction, with tours, two restaurants and a garden centre.

Denbies Wine Estate,Dorking +44 (0)1306 876616; www.denbiesvineyard.co.uk

Nyetimber Vineyard, Pulborough +44 (0)1798 813989; www.nyetimber-vineyard.com

Ridgeview Wine Estate, Hassocks +44 (0)1444 241441; www.ridgeview.co.uk Sedlescombe Organic Vineyard, Robertsbridge +44 (0)1580 830715; www.englishorganicwine.co.uk

SOUTH WEST

Camel Valley Vineyard sits on a sun-soaked hillside in Cornwall. Owners Bob and Annie Lindo have been making wine here for 15 years. "We planted the fi rst vines with our children in 1989," says Bob. Camel Valley collected the International Wine Challenge gold medal last year ­ the only gold in the world for a sparkling wine produced outside the Champagne region. This year it took a silver for its Pinot Noir Brut Rosé. The vineyard is accessible by steam train from Bodmin or on foot from the popular Camel Trail.

Camel Valley Vineyards, Bodmin +44 (0)1208 77959; www.camelvalley.com Sharpham Vineyard, Totnes +44 (0)1803 732203

Mumfords Vineyard, Bath +44 (0)1225 858367; www.mumfordsvineyard.co.uk

EAST ANGLIA

Wissett Wines owners Jonathan and Janet Craft are a good example of a couple who have turned a hobby into a successful business, running a B&B and wine tours as well as making wine. Vines from Alsace in France were fi rst planted in 1987 and more were added fi ve years later to cover eight acres.

Wissett Wines, Halesworth +44 (0)1986 785535; www.wissettwines.com Chilford Hall Vineyard, Cambridge +44 (0)1223 895600; www.chilfordhall.co.uk

Carter’s Vineyard, Colchester +44 (0)1206 271136

Gifford’s Hall Vineyard (Kemps), Bury St Edmunds +44 (0)1359 271497; www.giffordshall.co.uk

WEST MIDLANDS

Three Choirs vineyard is found at Newent in Gloucestershire. "This region doesn’t get the extreme highs and lows of the South East climate but that can be useful in wine production," says Thomas Shaw, who runs it. Over the past 35 years the vineyard has expanded to include wine tours, weekend breaks, a shop and an award-winning restaurant. Three Choirs was the fi rst English vineyard to be awarded a gold medal at Vinexpo at Bordeaux in France.

Three Choirs Vineyard, Newent +44 (0)1531 890223; www.threechoirs.com

Heart of England Vineyard, Warwick +44 (0)1789 750565; www.heart-of-england.info Renishaw Hall Vineyard, Derby +44 (0)1246 432310; www.sitwell.co.uk