Water of life
We visit Scotland’s famous distilleries and enjoy a dram of single malt whisky
Scotland’s whisky distilleries offer visitors a range of experiences, from taking a tour of the copper stills to sampling a fine single malt
TARTAN, BAGPIPES, HAGGIS and kilts might provide Scotland with its body and soul but it is single malt whisky that flows through its veins. It streams through its culture and economics too, providing the world with one of its best known and best loved exports. It courses through its geography, with the Lowlands, Highlands and islands reflected in the spirit’s different tastes and styles. And it is wedded to its history – even the great Jacobite uprisings of the 18th century were spurred on by the slogan: “no salt tax, no malt tax, no union.”
And while the romance of a quaint distillery nestling in some of the most obscure reaches of the rugged countryside has always attracted a steady flow of visitors, now more than ever tourists are heading into malt territory.
Almost as a reaction against the continued globalisation of food and drink, travellers are drawn to the source of a style of spirit that is as parochial and localised as it can be. A Highland whisky can only be made in the Highlands, for instance, and the world famous Glenfiddich single malt comes from one Speyside distillery and nowhere else.
The whisky industry has risen to the challenge that the influx of visitors has presented, offering its guests a range of experiences to meet all expectations, from the novice’s guide to malt distilling through to intensive “hands-on” whisky-making experiences. Remarkably there are even options available to the whole family, whatever their age, with some distilleries offering tourist facilities that are outstanding despite the presence of whisky rather than because of it. The advent of new air routes to airports such as Inverness has made some of the more obscure distilleries reachable to a less committed traveller for the first time.
The largest proportion of Scottish distilleries are situated in Speyside, a region of the Highlands bounded by Inverness in the North and Aberdeen to the East. The water from the River Spey and its tributaries is perfect for the production of single malt and between half and two-thirds of Scotland’s distilleries lie in this region. The area is known for its rich, fruity and sweet whiskies and great names such as The Glenlivet, The Macallan, and Glenfiddich have their homes here.
But if you’re flying to Edinburgh or Glasgow there are plenty of whisky options to choose from. Here is a guide to some of the choices available:
FOR THE NOVICE
Glenfiddich is the world’s most successful malt whisky and, unsurprisingly, it has visitor facilities to match its status.
The distillery tour is well-presented, easy to follow and is conducted in several languages and the state-of-the-art visitor centre includes interactive exhibitions.
There is also a large, airy café and one of the most sumptuous ladies’ loos in the country, which is more like the drawing room of a country house hotel.
The Glenlivet, set in the heart of Speyside, has recently been refurbished and now boasts an exhibition explaining the history of whisky production in the region. This is smuggling country and the distillery’s owners, Pernod Ricard, are planning to open smuggler trails to the public in the next few months.
If the whole family isn’t convinced that a trip to a distillery is fun, Tullibardine might be the answer. Opened in November 2004, the visitor centre is part of one of Scotland’s newest shopping complexes and offers a range of whisky tours.
Glenkinchie, east of Edinburgh, is another distillery worth going to, especially because of the high standard of this tour and excellent museum.
FOR THE CONNOISSEUR
As an increasing number of people tire of the standard distillery tours, the whisky companies are responding by giving them something special. Some, such as Bladnoch, which is in the Lowlands to the south of Glasgow, even offer whisky courses.
To meet this new demand Tullibardine now offers a two-hour connoisseurs’ tour that includes tasting whisky straight from the cask and an introduction to the company’s vintage range.
This tour should be pre-booked.
Glengoyne Distillery, to the north of Glasgow, offers a range of experiences from the normal guided tour to a half-day blending course, which culminates in you blending your own whisky and taking 100ml and a special certificate home.
Up in Speyside, Aberlour offers one of the finest advanced tours. The guides don’t rush, there is time to taste the distiller’s beer before it is transformed into whisky and you can sit in a special bar area at the end to taste a range of “expressions” (the term for a company’s different whiskies). You can even buy a bottle of distillery-only cask-strength whisky from either a bourbon or sherry cask and you get to fill it, seal it and even write the label.
Iconic Speyside whisky The Macallan offers a modern interactive whisky experience. An intensive and lengthy tour for the experienced whisky buff takes you to the very heart of its whisky production, allowing access to the huge warehouses and the room where the malts are married.
The Balvenie, which is situated next to The Glenfiddich Distillery, also has an advanced tour and is in great demand from serious whisky fans. A special tasting is held in a small dedicated tasting centre and participants are given a rare opportunity to try some of the region’s most exquisite whiskies.
FOR THE FAMILY
It may seem odd to talk of family experiences and whisky but at some sites there are exhibition centres and museums that are whisky-free and suited for all the family. It’s worth checking in advance as some have a minimum age requirement whereas others allow newborns and have easy access for buggies.
The Scotch Whisky Experience, for instance, has a delightfully informal film and guided tour through the history of whisky and how it is made. The whole experience culminates with a barrel ride through history that old and young alike will enjoy. The restaurant and café cater for all ages.
Founded in 1786, Strathisla is the oldest operating distillery in the Highlands and the home of Chivas Regal. Visitors can watch the skills of the craftsman and observe how the spirit is distilled twice in copper stills. Discover why only the “middle cut” or “heart” of the spirit is stored in traditional oak casks to mature and relax in the comfort of the Dram Room with a sample of Chivas Regal 18 Year Old.
Dewar’s World of Whisky is north of both Glasgow and Edinburgh at the Aberfeldy Distillery. The distillery tour is very worthwhile, but for the family the Dewar’s experience is ideal – there are videos, a run through the blended whisky’s advertising past, quizzes and plenty of family history.
The Famous Grouse experience at Glenturret Distillery, north of Edinburgh and Glasgow, is another perfect blend of whisky information and fun. In one room there is an interactive 3D film which gives you the feeling that you are flying on the back of a grouse over Scotland and standing on a floor that changes from running water to cracking ice. Children love this experience, just as their parents enjoy a wee dram of one of Scotland’s finest blends.
WHAT’S IN A NAME
A single malt whisky is one made from malted barley, water and yeast from one distillery only.
The word “single” refers to the fact that it comes from a single distillery but the finished product will contain whisky from lots of different barrels from that distillery. Barrels of different ages and styles will be mixed to create the malt.
The age on the label refers to the youngest whisky in the mix. That means that if 99% of the whisky is 12 years old and 1% is 10 years old, the age on the label is 10.
A blended whisky is a collection of single malt whiskies from one or more distilleries mixed with whisky made from another grain, such as unmalted barley or maize, which makes for a rounded flavour.
bmi flies direct to Inverness, Edinburgh and Glasgow from London Heathrow. For more information and to book, visit flybmi.com
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Single malt whisky is increasingly being used as an accompaniment to food. Try one of the following:
Moderately peated whiskies such as Bowmore work well with seafood like oysters and langoustines. The whisky poured onto an oyster shell is particularly delicious.
A heavily peated whisky such as Lagavulin is the perfect accompaniment to Roquefort cheese.
Serve a fruity Speyside whisky such as Glenrothes with a meat dish accompanied by cranberry jelly.
Chill a light whisky such as Dalwhinnie and serve with a dessert that has a hot chocolate sauce. The whisky will warm through, releasing the flavours to stunning effect.
GETTING THERE
CONTACT DETAILS FOR THE WHISKY-LOVER’S ADDRESS BOOK
ABERLOUR, SPEYSIDE (Aberdeen Airport)
Tour price: £7.70 www.aberlour.com +44 (0)1340 881249
BALVENIE, SPEYSIDE (Aberdeen and Inverness Airports)
Tour price: £20 www.balvenie.com +44 (0)1340 820373
DALLAS DHU, SPEYSIDE (Inverness Airport)
Tour price: £4 adults, £2 children www.maltwhiskytrail.com +44 (0)1309 676548
DEWARS WORLD OF WHISKY, PERTHSHIRE (Glasgow and Edinburgh Airports)
Tour price: £5.50 adults, £3 children, £20 family, £10 deluxe www.dewarswow.com +44 (0)1887 822010
THE FAMOUS GROUSE EXPERIENCE, PERTHSHIRE (Glasgow and Edinburgh Airports)
Tour price: £4.50-£10 adults depending on tour, children under 10 free, £3-£5 older children www.thefamousgrouse.com/ experience +44 (0)1764 656565
GLENFIDDICH, SPEYSIDE (Aberdeen and Inverness Airports)
Tour price: Free, connoisseurs’ tour £12.50 www.glenfiddich.co.uk +44 (0)1340 810204
GLENGOYNE, NORTH OF GLASGOW (Glasgow Airport)
Tour price: From £4.50 with several options up to £100 for the full masterclass www.glengoyne.com +44 (0)1360 550254
GLENKINCHIE, EAST OF EDINBURGH (Edinburgh Airport)
Tour price: £4 or £7 www.scotlandwhisky.com +44 (0)1875 342004
THE GLENLIVET, SPEYSIDE (Aberdeen Airport)
Tour price: Free www.glenlivet.com +44 (0)1340 821720
THE MACALLAN, SPEYSIDE (Aberdeen Airport)
Tour price: £5 for regular tour, £15 for “precious” tour www.themacallan.com +44 (0)1340 872280
SCOTCH WHISKY HERITAGE CENTRE, EDINBURGH (Edinburgh Airport)
Tour price: £8.95 adults, £4.75 children, £19.95 family www.whisky-heritage.co.uk +44 (0)131 220 0441
STRATHISLA, BANFFSHIRE (Aberdeen Airport)
Tour price £5 (under 18s free) www.scotchwhisky.net/ distilleries/strathisla.htm +44 (0)1542 783044
TULLIBARDINE DISTILLERY, PERTHSHIRE (Edinburgh and Glasgow Airports)
Tour price: £3 adult, £1.50 child over 5, £10 connoisseurs’ tour www.tullibardine.com +44 (0)1764 682252
Words: Dominic Roskrow
