Kingdom under the sea
Jeddah’s Red Sea coast boasts some of the most beautiful coral reefs on the planet, making it a great destination for a diving holiday
Egypt’s Red Sea coast might get the tourists in droves, but divers who head for Saudi Arabia’s underwater paradise may find themselves outnumbered by the fish
HEAR THE WORDS “Red Sea” and “diving” and chances are that after years of lavish advertisements extolling the many and varied delights of the Egyptian Riviera, you will think of Sharm el-Sheikh or Hurghada. Not that there is anything wrong with either resort. Egypt’s Red Sea coast still boasts some of the most beautiful coral reefs on the planet, but, in the last 20 years, mass tourism and massive development have transformed what was once off the beaten track into a winter sun destination, serviced by package-holiday operators. Egypt’s Costa del Red is increasingly attractive to divers for its nightlife, five-star restaurants and Balinese spas, but it’s not the destination it used to be and these days they are as likely to find themselves swimming through schools of sunburnt tourists as they are through clouds of multicoloured fish.
Like coins, seas have two sides and in recent years Red Sea divers have been turning their attention further east. In many ways a world away, but actually barely 200 kilometres from the reefs of Marsa Alam and the riotous nightlife of Naamah Bay, Saudi Arabia has begun to attract divers.
A beach holiday in one of the world’s most religiously conservative countries might seem counterintuitive, especially to anyone whose idea of fun is a holiday with Club 18-30. Until recently, Saudi Arabia was off-limits to most non-resident foreign travellers, but, with the introduction of group tourist visas earlier this year, the Kingdom has come to be seen as a world-class diving destination.
Saudi Arabia is a fascinating culture but very different from the West, and it’s a good idea to bear those differences in mind. For instance, women especially must dress conservatively in public and alcohol is prohibited. Less well known is that couples must produce their marriage certificate in order to share a room in a hotel.
For the moment, a good option is to make arrangements through local operators, who rent equipment, arrange transportation to the reefs and sort out diving permits. Operators can arrange both private and group tours and the latter option can be a great way to meet local enthusiasts. As a sport, diving is increasingly popular with Saudis; one reason why dive shops can now be found in Jeddah, Dammam and even Riyadh, which is a good 400km from the nearest reefs.
If you don’t have the time for anything adventurous, it is possible to dive off Jeddah’s seaside Corniche and, come the weekend, amateur divers can be seen trudging through the surf to the edge of the reef that rings the city. It may be more convenient than chartering a boat but, as you might expect, the sea off the city is somewhat polluted and however lovely the coral, the plastic chairs, bicycles and other detritus found in the water spoil the experience.
A better bet – and for women divers, who for reasons of modesty are not welcome on public beaches, the only option – is to charter a boat to dive on one of the offshore reefs, most of which are within an hour or so of Jeddah. Out of sight of land, “modesty” is less of an issue.
As you sail out of the city, you may wonder where the Red Sea gets its name from. The answer to that question will depend on who you ask. Some cite the spectacular sunsets, technicolour extravaganzas that turn the air itself a vivid vermilion. Some say that the sea gets its name from a species of algae that stains the waters with red bloom each year, others that it is named after the mineral-rich mountains that fringe its shores, which are ochre or ruddy red in colour. What is for sure, however, is the incredible bounty of the Red Sea’s waters. It is as though nature, thwarted by the harsh, desert conditions on land, threw all her energies into creating an underwater paradise instead.
The Red Sea is absolutely brimming with marine life. There are at least 200 different species of coral, from purple-hued “brain” coral, cream-coloured sea fans and yellowy whip coral to scarlet cauliflower coral and delicate pink carnation coral. There is hard coral and soft coral. Coral that grows in balls and coral that grows in feathery fronds. There is even a kind of coral that stings.
Then there are the colourful animals that live off it: black and yellow striped lionfish, orange striped trigger fish and turquoise-coloured rusty parrot fish, spotted rays, electric rays and manta rays. There are more intimidating denizens like barracudas, pufferfish and sharks and cuddlier ones like turtles and dolphins, all far more curious and approachable than their cousins on the Egyptian side of the sea because they are far less used to encountering humans in the water.
Should you ever tire of the natural wonders, however, there are a number of fascinating manmade marvels to explore as well. For all its beauty, the Red Sea is quite treacherous and not all the ships that ply its length – this is one of the busiest waterways in the world, also known as Tanker Alley – navigate its coral maze successfully. Those that sink in shallow waters end up becoming reefs themselves, attracting a fascinating variety of marine life. Many of the wrecks are named after the cargo they carried, so you can dive at such evocatively named sites as Chicken Wreck, Marble Wreck and Cable Wreck. One of the most interesting is the Mecca Wreck, named for its location rather than its cargo. Largely intact and covered in a multicoloured coat of soft corals, this site attracts large schools of batfish and surgeon fish among others, which jealously guard their territory, feinting at divers that they think are getting too close. There are sharks too, which are friendly enough to be hand fed by the more intrepid while beady-eyed barracuda observe the goings-on from deeper waters.
Spend an afternoon in this alternate universe and you may have trouble remembering that bustling Jeddah is only an hour away. As the sun sets over Egypt, that hour gives you just enough time to ask yourself again why this sea is called Red when turquoise, lapis lazuli, sapphire and cerulean are all so much closer to the truth.
bmi flies direct to Jeddah from London Heathrow. For more information and to book, visit flybmi.com
DIVING TIPS AND CONTACTS
WHETHER YOU’RE A NOVICE OR A PRO, BEAR THE FOLLOWING IN MIND
- The Red Sea has few truly dangerous sea currents so most sites suit both the beginner and the experienced diver. Some, however, are a little more tricky, notably the southern tip of Tower Reef, where currents can get complicated.
- It’s best to set out early as winds, which begin blowing by late-morning, can cause swells and significantly reduce visibility.
- Divers heading out alone should inform the Saudi coastguard of their plans. Some sites require special permission to visit.
- Equipment can be hired in Riyadh and Jeddah and while some operators are more experienced than others, all dive leaders are certified by the RSTC (Recreational Scuba Training Council, covering PADI, PDIC and NAUI) or the British Sub-Aqua Club (BSAC). Equipment can be rented by the day or for longer periods.
- For any diving emergencies, Saudi Arabia currently has two recompression chambers for civilian use, one of which is in Jeddah. Both units have doctors, who are on call 24 hours a day.
- The Al Nakeel, Blue Beach, Sheraton Beach and the Al Bilad beach clubs along Obhur Creek just north of Jeddah can arrange diving trips for individuals or for groups. For more comprehensive services, try the following:
DESERT SEA DIVERS
PO Box 50817 Jeddah, 21533; +966 2 6561807; info@desertseadivers.ws They offer packages for divers which include 7 nights’ accommodation for two with 10 dives, from £328
RED SEA DIVERS
Olaya Street, Riyadh; +966 1 4500365; redseadivers@arab.net.sa They are able to offer equipment hire only, starting from £16
Photography: John Akar, Words: Warren Singh-Bartlett
