words: robina dam
Far from being just for special occasions, Italians enjoy their first glass of prosecco at 10am – and see no reason to stop when dinner’s served
“WHY DRINK PROSECCO when you could have champagne?” a friend asked me, snootily. “Surely prosecco is just a poor man’s fizz. It’s what you would choose if you didn’t have the budget for the proper stuff, right?”
Wrong, actually. Prosecco’s fruity, creamy and lighter version of the bubbly nectar makes it less acidic and hence much more drinkable, though it’s slightly lower percentage of alcohol to champagne can lull you into a false sense of security. Plus, the bubbles last longer, due to the fermentation method, making it more of a celebratory option. And my view is clearly being shared by growing numbers – and not just during the Christmas, New Year and Valentine period. Prosecco, the Italian version of champagne (though not produced by the méthode champenoise), is showing such a buoyant and healthy rate of growth, that it clearly has something to shout about. For the first time ever, the rate of growth has actually overtaken champagne in several countries, giving the Italians a real excuse to pop a cork in celebration.
The Venetians, however, don’t need the approval of the rest of the world to celebrate what they already see as their own treasure. The prosecco grape remains exclusive to Italy (the Veneto region, more specifically), though its success is now prompting some vineyard owners to research the possibility of growing the grape on foreign soil. (Intriguingly, India seems to be the country of choice for several cognac as well as prosecco growers who are looking into joint ventures.)
To date, however, it remains as staunchly Italian and as symbolic of la dolce vita as Ferrari sports cars, truffle risotto or Gina Lollobrigida. Not that it’s for special occasions only (though a recent survey among Italian teenagers found that prosecco was what they associated with celebration). In fact, come 10am when I pass one of the numerous bacaro (bar) at which the Venetians have pitstops every couple of hours to refuel themselves, a group of four elderly men (looking straight out of a Caravaggio painting) pop in for an ombra (little drink) and some nibbles.
It may seem rather early for a stiff one but when in Venice, well, do as the Venetians do. So I follow suit. The point of an ombra is that it is a small thirst-quencher: the fizz comes either in dinky wine glasses or mini cocktail coupes. Almost everyone in the bar has chosen a coppa of prosecco.
And, unlike in Britain, say, the Italians wouldn’t dream of having a quick drink without tasty morsels to mop up the booze. So the bar-top is adorned with cichette, a small plate of one or two bites of a couple of different things: a square of white polenta topped with creamy salt cod (bacalha con polenta), marinated artichoke (carciofi), mini-meatballs deep-fried in breadcrumbs (poppette).
And, as with most other wines, you can find proseccos to suit all budgets: some that are cheap and cheerful, some downright awful and a few that are the nectar of the gods. At some of the more basic type of bacaras, an ombra of prosecco would cost roughly €1-2. But if it’s quality you’re after, the Cartizze hill in the Veneto region, north-west Italy, is unsurpassed. And if you’re passing through, the name to ask for is Bisol – a family which has been linked to prosecco-making for over 400 years.
While the majority of Bisol’s prosecco is still quaffed in Italy – about 70% – the rest is snapped up internationally, with Britain, Germany and France as growing markets. And it seems that the Swiss can’t get enough of the most prestige cuvée. “We sold more prosecco last year in Switzerland than in the whole of the USA put together,” remarks Giovanni Oliva, the export manager.
Which is what brings me to the Veneto during harvest-time. From the flat terrain of Venice, it’s only a matter of hours before you are in prosecco country, set to an awesome backdrop of the Dolomite mountains, and with sloping valleys showing off vertiginously-grown vines. There are 140 prosecco grape growers who share the 106 hectares of Cartizze hill, where the land is valued at $1 million per hectare. Which makes it all the more understandable that the fifth-generation Bisol, Gianluca, 40, is very much a hands-on owner, together with his father, Antonio, 73, and other family members. “I would compare our prosecco to the Armani brand,” he tells me. “There is the high-end mark of the Giorgio Armani label but also a wider diffusion line of Emporio Armani – we have that same range in Bisol.”
I
T’S A FAIR COMPARISON, which is why there’s something for everyone, especially in spring, when there’s a prosecco festival. And there are plenty of other festivals throughout the year. If you’re mad about mushrooms, come for the cocofungho in September, swiftly followed by the chestnut festival. Ultimately, the strength of the region lies in celebrating its seasons. That is why at Da Gigetto restaurant the menu is divided in two: dishes of the week or dishes of the season. After indulging in a seven-course marathon to match proseccos with food [see separate box, page 50], I was at bursting point. The food may have been utterly magnificent, and the different styles of Bisol held their own and were absolutely delicious, but nevertheless I rued my inability to say “no”. It was then that I was saved from over-indulgence’s after-effects. The restaurant owner sent a medical elixir my way. It’s not without a sense of irony that I raised a glass to my digestif saviour: a shot of grappa.
THE PROSECCO TRAIL
ENJOY A SPARKLING SHORT BREAK IN PROSECCO COUNTRY
If you’re heading on the prosecco trail (strada del prosecco), the wine region of Valdobbiadene is a short hop from Venice (approx an hour’s drive), making it ideal for anything from a week-long gourmet visit to even just a day-trip if you’re pushed for time (
www.prosecco.it). Set out for the small market village of Follina and use that as a base. It’s worth visiting the local abbey, whose cloisters are in an architectural style that can only be seen in three surviving churches in Italy.
STAY AT:
HOTEL DEI CHIOSTRI This very “designed” hotel will keep the younger, metropolitan crowd happy with its Philippe Starck-like interiors.
www.hoteldeichiostri.com HOTEL ABBAZIA A slightly more traditional style but the tea-room is well worth a visit. Hollywood stars Sandra Bullock and Chris O’Donnell stayed here when filming In Love and War.
www.hotelabbazia.it BISOL FARMHOUSE If you are travelling with family or a large group and want to venture somewhere a little further into the heart of vineyard county, the Bisol-owned farmhouse in Rolle has accommodation for up to 20 people. It’s frequently taken over by corporate organisations for team bonding weekends. foresteria@bisol.it; +39 04 3897 5809
DRINK AT:
AL MILANI Adjacent to both these hotels is Al Milani, a slice of genuine local Italian village life. When you go for evening drinks, complimentary plates of tasters arrive, including some excellent Parma ham.
Piazza IV Novembre, 21, 31051 Follina; +39 04 3897 1412
DINE AT:
RISTORANTE DA GIGETTO An absolute treasure trove of food and drink, this old-Veneto style restaurant has retained many of its 19th-century features including frescos. The cellar is stocked with rare bottles and also has a private dining area.
Via A De Gasperi, 4, 31050 Miane (Treviso)
WINE TOUR AT:
BISOL FACTORY Bisol’s main prosecco factory organises wine tours of the processing plant. “We do it for a couple right up to a big group of 20, if booked ahead – though that’s the maximum number so we can still give individual attention,” says Bisol’s Giovanni Oliva. “After the tour, there is a tasting, so that visitors can experience the wide choice of prosecco flavours.”
www.bisol.it
THE BEST BELLINI
A true bellini is made not with champagne but prosecco. After all, it’s an Italian invention. Just a gondola’s throw from St Mark’s Square, is the Danieli Hotel’s Dandalo bar – which has been awarded the Best Bar of Italy award for three consecutive years. Mixologist Alessandro Cara is such a purist that he only makes the classic peach bellini when peaches are in season (May to September), as his purée is made from fresh fruit slices before being topped up with Bisol Crede. Otherwise, his alternatives include mandarin bellinis (October to March) or even melon, strawberry or grape bellinis. They cost €14 and come with a plate of olives and nuts. Saluti!
PERFECT PARTNERS
MATCH YOUR PROSECCO TO THE DELICACIES ON YOUR PLATE
“Many people automatically think that prosecco is a sweet wine,” says Giovanni Oliva. “But you can drink very dry ones and have others which are an extremely sweet dessert wine. Prosecco is ideal with food, if you match it with your dishes.”
Oliva’s pointers for matching your Bisol proseccos with food:
Crede: driest and hence best as an aperitif. Used by leading bartenders as their base for cocktails, including the legendary bellini.
Vigneti del Fol: a little sweeter than the Crede. Match with risottos, seafood pasta or grilled seafood.
Sates: among the sweetest so accompany with a dessert that isn’t cloying, such as fruits of the forest tart or a traditional apple pie.
Cartizze: perfect with lobsters, prawns or with fresh strawberries and cream.
Garnei: its complex flavour allows it to hold its flavour even when accompanying rabbit, pigeon, turkey or mushrooms.
Molera: this is the only non-sparkling prosecco that the house makes. Works well with fatty fish, such as smoked salmon or mackerel, and even sushi and sashimi.
bmi flies direct to Venice from London Heathrow.
For more information and to book, visit flybmi.com photography:
www.bisol.it, dacotah renneau
FIZZING IN VENICE
If you haven’t got time to visit the prosecco vineyards, let the prosecco come to you, in two of Venice’s most glamorous places. [25a0] THE HOTEL DANIELI (Formerly Palazzo Dandolo)
In the 19th century, guests included Charles Dickens, Balzac, Wagner and Proust.
www.luxurycollection. com/danieli [25a0] PALAZZO ABADESSA Pretend to be a contessa at this sumptuous palazzo (below), which has retained original antique furniture from the 1700s. Drink prosecco in the courtyard, where breakfast is also served with fabulous San Daniele hams and entire cheese boards.
Calle Priuli 4011, 30131 Cannaregio; +39 04 1241 3784
www.abadessa.com
|
Bookmark 
