Peak performance
From off-piste skiing to open-air ice skating, there’s a winter activity to suit everyone in France’s stunning Rhône-Alpes region
Peak performance
Ever fancied swimming under ice, trying your hand at dog-sledding or ice skating in the open air? Discover a veritable winter wonderland within easy reach of Lyon in France’s stunning Rhône-Alpes region
IMAGINE YOURSELF LOOKING up at the world from under the ice of a frozen lake, clambering on an ice-covered cliff face and steering huskies through parts of the Alps rarely seen on winter vacations. These are the kinds of adventures that await you in Lyon and its surrounding areas.
When the Romans discovered Lyon more than 2,000 years ago, they adopted the city as a crossroads for trade, as it linked Great Britain with Italy via the Mediterranean, the Alps and the Atlantic. Today, you’ll find that Lyon is still a crossroads, but one that now links some of the best winter sports in the world. What’s more, hidden across the region lies a range of experiences to discover, whether you’re seeking an action-packed challenge or an easy adventure.
Think of winter sports in the Rhône-Alpes and the image that comes to mind is of snow-dusted mountains and ski slopes. After all, the region has some of the finest ski resorts, as well as the largest ski-able surface area on the planet. But it’s not just about skiing; there’s also a host of other activities to entice you onto the snow.
If, however, you are in the region to go skiing, then there’s something for everyone: perfect hills for all levels, ski-in/ski-out facilities and perfectly groomed slopes at varying altitudes where the snow looks and feels as though it has just settled. Even those who are into serious downhill skiing (the extreme form) will feel challenged.
Some 1,550 metres up in the French Alps, less than three hours from Lyon airport and rubbing shoulders with Val d’Isère, lies Sainte-Foy Tarentaise, a resort which is worth a visit as its slopes are thin on crowds. Plus, there are the reasonably priced chairlifts, fantastic bars and restaurants, and spectacular views overlooking neighbouring Italy.
If you’d prefer some off-piste action, then the Col d’Iseran is Val d’Isère’s high-altitude mecca, with an abundance of areas where you can go off the beaten track. Snow-shoeing is an easily mastered activity, requiring little more than suitable footwear, and allows you to explore the flora and fauna on one of Europe’s largest hillsides. If that’s too tame, try guided skiing, where an experienced guide coaches you to improve your cross-country skills.
About 20 kilometres from Val d’Isère, an unforgettable experience of under-ice viewing awaits at Tignes lake, where you’ll plunge through a hole into the ice-covered water. Swimming under a thick layer of ice is an invigorating and other-worldly experience, heightened by the sight of magical ice formations and sub-zero temperatures. Rest assured, a qualified instructor and high-tech protective equipment are never further than a pull cord away.
For something less rigorous but equally enthralling, why not try dog-sledding in Val d’Isère? The day begins with the basics, such as “stop” and “go”, followed by a half- or full-day session whizzing over the snow, past picturesque chalets and villages such as Sainte-Foy and nearby Le Monal. Those who aren’t prepared to stand and drive the sled can cosy up with a blanket and watch the scenery go by.
Heading north-west from the resort of Val d’Isère you’ll find Haute-Savoie. Try your hand at via ferrata (from the Italian meaning “iron way”), a type of mountain climbing route with a safety system permanently installed, making the climb suitable for persons with no prior training and minimal equipment – basically mountaineering without the savvy. First-class supervision from climbing experts and specific equipment is provided. Choose between the high, scenic route – a stone’s throw from the ski resorts – or a glistening ice-covered mountain via ferrata for a more challenging outdoor pursuit.
Beautiful Annecy, 90 minutes east of Lyon, offers a myriad of eco-museums, churches and monuments to explore. But if you’ve had enough of culture and are craving something a little more exciting, it’s time to experience the Rhône-Alpes area from a different perspective – from the air. Parasailing might sound scary, but the initial fear of descending a mountain high in the air, anchored only by a snowmobile-bound tow rope with a parachute on your back and skis on your feet, will quickly be replaced by the sheer thrill of it all. Your adventure can even be captured on film as proof that it really happened.
If your idea of off-piste means off the Alps, then stay Rhône-side. Starting on the flat, Lyon offers a chance to see the city by bicycle. The “Velov” system allows you, for a small fee, to pick a bicycle at one of more than 300 points around the city, cycle to your heart’s content and then drop the bike off at any of the other points when you’ve had enough. The city centre also provides skating at two convivial rinks, one of which hosted the world skating championships earlier this year, while the impressive Bellecour – the largest city square in Europe – has an open-air rink as part of seasonal festivities.
If you’re around between 17-19 November, celebrate the long-awaited arrival of the year’s Beaujolais Nouveau with a festival that also encompasses a marathon, setting off from Fleurie in the north, and ending in nearby Villefranche-surSaône. Or just wait for the wine to come to Lyon, as it makes its historic voyage down the Rhône at midnight on the first day of the festival. The city’s Festival of Lights, from 7-10 December, is another must-see: the world-renowned four-day event draws millions of visitors to witness the shimmering spectacle of glowing monuments and thousands of lights flickering in windowsills throughout the city.
In Tournon-sur-Rhône in the Ardeche, less than an hour south of Lyon, there are many excellent countryside walks through evergreen hillsides overlooking the Vercors – a range of mountains and plateaux east of the Rhône river. Here, in some of the best wine-producing areas in France, there’s ample opportunity for caving – wine cellar visiting – should the weather drive you underground, or indeed, if the weather’s perfect. It is the ideal excuse to escape those energetic snowbound pursuits and enjoy a drop of the good stuff instead.
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