Magical Moscow
An enchanting itinerary for a trip to Russia’s fascinating capital
MAGICAL MOSCOW
Moscow is the heart and soul of modern Russia: an enchanting metropolis whose awe-inspiring avenues, magnificent architecture and 24-hour lifestyle could dazzle even the most jaded of travellers
words: piers gladstone
MOSCOW IS A capital city overflowing with culture. The Kremlin and Red Square ooze history. The Bolshoi Theatre delights lovers of the performing arts. Moscow’s galleries cover the entire history of art, from Boticelli to Kandinsky. Its architecture reflects its diverse history, from the medieval onion-domed St Basil’s Cathedral to 20th-century constructivism. And in its restaurants and nightlife a metaphor for Moscow’s newfound wealth and confidence can be found. In short, Moscow is one of the most fascinating and rewarding places to visit in the world.
Most of the capital’s best sights are within a three-mile radius inside the Circle Line of the metro and can be visited on foot. Although best at night, when floodlit, the most logical and impressive starting point for any visit to Moscow is Red Square. Entering through Resurrection Gate and walking out into the vast expanse of the square is a truly breathtaking experience. History comes at you from all sides; straight ahead are the multi-coloured domes of St Basil’s Cathedral, Moscow’s most famous landmark, to the right the imposing walls of the Kremlin loom over the simple granite of Lenin’s Mausoleum, and to the left is the majestic elegance of GUM (Gosudarstvenny Universalny Magazin – the State Department Store). This is Moscow’s best known and architecturally exquisite store, whose three glass-roofed arcades and stuccoed balconies are filled with a myriad of shops and designer boutiques on a par with any of the world’s top department stores.
St Basil’s Cathedral (admission £2.00; open from 11am, closed Tuesdays) was built in the 1550s to commemorate a victory over the Mongols, and, according to legend, Ivan the Terrible was so taken aback by its beauty he had the architect blinded so he could never design such an architectural feat again. The inside is not as impressive, but there are some wonderful frescos and icons.
After St Basil’s, re-cross the square and join the queues to visit the embalmed Lenin (admission free; 10am-1pm, closed Fridays and Mondays). Although he stated that he wanted to be buried alongside his mother in St Petersburg, Lenin has been lying in his mausoleum for more than 80 years now, mummified by a closely-guarded secret recipe invented especially for this purpose. He looks a little waxy, but is otherwise perfectly preserved. There is constant talk of giving Lenin a proper burial, but, as yet, he remains entombed and surrounded by wonderfully dour guards. Be warned, no cameras are allowed, and this includes mobile phones, which must be left in the luggage area.
Although inspecting the dead might not whet the appetite, there is no better place to revive the living and prepare for an afternoon in the Kremlin than Bosco Café (495 929 3182) in GUM, directly opposite Lenin’s Mausoleum. During the summer one can dine al-fresco on Red Square itself. And it’s worth doing a short tour of GUM before or after lunch.
A five-minute walk from Bosco Café across Red Square and into Alexandrovsky Gardens leads to the ticket office for the Kremlin, via the eternal flame of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.
The Kremlin is the epicentre of power in Russia and the oldest part of Moscow. It was also the centre for the Russian Orthodox Church until 1917, which explains the plethora of gold-domed churches and cathedrals that are enclosed inside the 2.25km wall. The oldest buildings date back to the 15th century, the highlight of which is the Assumption Cathedral and its five golden domes. Other must-sees are the Ivan the Great Bell Tower (the tallest structure in Moscow until the 20th century), the Tsar Bell (the largest bell in the world, weighing in at 202 tonnes), the Armoury, which houses such royal extravagances
as jewel-encrusted thrones and gold carriages, as well as a collection of Fabergé eggs, and, finally, the Diamond Fund Exhibition, which includes a 190-carat diamond belonging to Catherine the Great.
The Kremlin is open 10am-6pm, closed on Thursdays, and admission is £7.50 plus £7.50 for the Armoury and Diamond Fund. It is also worth paying for a guide. All good hotels will be able to arrange one, or you can take one of the unofficial guides on site for around £10 per hour.
In the Bolshoi Theatre (1 Teatralnaya Ploschad; 495 250 7317; www.bolshoi.ru), the Moscow State Conservatory (Bolshoi Nikitkaya Ulitsa 13; 495 229 8183; closed Tuesdays) and the Tchaikovsky Concert Hall (Triumfalnaya Ploschad 4/31; 495 299 0378), fans of ballet, opera and concert music are well catered for with world-class performances at reasonable prices. Although the Main Stage at the Bolshoi is closed until 2008 for renovation, it is still possible to visit the opera or see the Bolshoi Ballet and where Rudolf Nureyev danced at the New Stage (tickets can be bought online or at the ticket office). Tickets for concerts to see the Moscow Philharmonic Orchestra and the Russian National Orchestra performing at either the Conservatory or the Tchaikovsky Concert Hall can be bought either in advance or on the day of the concert.
If this all sounds a little too conservative, Moscow’s sybaritic nightlife is legendary. Many bars and clubs have strict ‘face control’, although the likes of Maki Café (Glinishchevsky Pereulok 3) and 30/7 (Petrovka Ulitsa 30/7, enter from Petrovsky Bulvar) have an open-door policy. One of Moscow’s latest additions is Sky Lounge (32a Leninsky Prospekt; 495 938 5104), on the top floor of the Academy of Sciences and beneath a surreal golden sculpture, offering amazing views of Moscow and cocktails to test one’s financial reserve. Be sure to book.
For a first night’s meal, Moscow’s latest $50 million folly, Turandot (Tverskoi Bulvar 26/5; £80.00 per head; 495 739 0011), cannot be beaten for sheer extravagance, and its Chinese-Japanese menu is first class. It is also centrally located, ideal for either heading onwards or back to the hotel.
After a late night, start the next day with a wander around one of Moscow’s galleries. All are centrally located and within a five-minute walk from metro stations. The Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts (Volkhonka Ulitsa 12; £5.00; open midday-6pm, closed Mondays and Tuesdays) houses an incredible foreign art collection, and its Impressionist and Post-Impressionist rooms deserve their world-class reputation. Afterwards, pop across the road to the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour (Volhonka 15-17). A replica of the 19th-century original, it can hold a congregation of 15,000. The kitsch interior is befitting of the grandiose exterior.
The Tretyakov Gallery (Lavrushinsky Pereulok 10; £5.00; open 10am-6.30pm, closed Mondays) has an outstanding religious and pre-Revolution collection. However, if modern art is more to your taste, then the New Tretyakov Gallery (open 10am-7pm; £5.00; closed Mondays) opposite Park Kultury (formerly Gorky Park) has a comprehensive 20th-century Russian collection. Then walk around the poignant Sculpture Park behind the gallery, a graveyard of Soviet-era statues that were re-homed in 1991.
Modern Muscovites love to shop, but many eschew the likes of Hermès and Burberry, located on the pastel-coloured Stoleshnikov Pereulok, and instead head to the Vernissage Market at Ismailovsky Park at the weekends (Metro Ismailovsky Park). A feast of Soviet posters, military uniforms, coins, badges and old cameras tempt nostalgic Russians, collectors and authentic souvenir-hunting tourists. Haggling is acceptable, but don’t expect bargain prices; the traders know the value of their wares.
If the pace of the city gets too much, Patriarchy Prudy, where writer Mikhail Bulgakov lived and set the memorable opening scene of Master and Magarita, is a tranquil oasis in the centre of the city. Ducks swim in the summer, and ice skaters swirl on the frozen pond in the winter. Have tea at the charming Café Magarita (Malaya Bronnaya Ulitsa 28) by the ponds and enjoy the small resident Russian folk band.
Like any major metropolis, Moscow is too large to fully appreciate with just one visit. However, a flight time from London of three-and-a-half hours makes it within easy reach, giving the visitor the perfect excuse to return to this beguiling city in spring, summer, autumn and winter.
THE MOSCOW METRO
WHERE SIMPLY GETTING THERE IS PART OF THE PLEASURE
The Moscow Metro carries more people in more splendour than any other metro in the world: nine million passengers per day – more than the combined total of New York and London. What makes it truly remarkable, however, is the astonishing design and architecture of its stations, or ‘underground palaces’, as they have been described. Each one is individual; chandeliers, stained glass, frescos, statues, mosaics, basreliefs and marble adorn many. Stations that should not be missed are: Novoslobodskaya, Komsomolskaya, Belorusskaya, Kievskaya, Mayakovskaya, Ploschad Revolyutsii, and Kropotkinskaya.
EATING IN MOSCOW
YOU’LL BE SPOILT FOR CHOICE
For good quality Russian cuisine, try the pre-revolutionary styled Café Pushkin (Tverskoi Bulvar; £50.00 per head; 095 229 9411) or the cheaper, 1950s themed Glavpivtorg (Ulubyanka Ulitsa 5; 095 928 2591).
For a real taste of ‘New Russia’, two of the must-be-seen-at establishments are Gallereya (Petrovka Ulitsa 27; £50.00 per head; 095 937 4544) and Gorki (1st TverskayaYamskay 3; £70.00 per head; 095 775 2456).
For a fantastic eastern experience, try Shatush (Gogolevsky Blvd 17; £75.00 per head; 095 201 4071), modelled on London’s Hakkasan. For Italian cuisine, eat at Pepperoni (Petrovka Ulitsa 17, Blg 1; £60.00 per head; 095 980 7350). Two doors down is Sherbet (£15.00 per head; 095 928 0812), an Uzbeki restaurant with evening belly dancers.
Prices include two courses and wine, which is very expensive in Moscow.
